House construction on a slope (Central Hesse)

No one is spreading panic and 5m is not that dramatic. But the average shows that the 5m do impose some restrictions. For a terrace, a lot has to be dug up.

Yes, that is really tricky. But once the excavator has started, the cubic meters are quickly pushed aside. Or you decide on the south terrace – or maybe not.

Wouldn’t that be a perfect plot for a split-level?

Who would want that anyway?

Who wants that anyway?

I like split-level. It may be impractical, but I have always found an "open separation" of living areas interesting. And it's definitely better than sitting on the terrace in front of a 1.7m earth embankment.

The earth is not so easily pushed aside. Filling up there, digging down there, must always be intercepted. The rest that remains is disposed of at a high cost. When taking this into account, Splitlevel is not the worst solution.

You have a bit of a slope - be glad, because it offers you opportunities to think "out of the box." Setting a level to place a flatland house on it will not lead to good architecture. Think with the slope rather than against it and get experienced local help (architect).

Topic of staggered roof surfaces & knee wall - good idea:
My parents built a house in 1970 with a staggered gable roof similar to the image suggestion by to comply with the eaves height requirement towards the street. Inside, however, it is not a split-level. The knee wall to the garden is over 2m high.

Topic terrace:
The terrace for cozy sitting, barbecuing, etc. does not necessarily have to be on the same level as the ground floor. Slightly modulating the terrain and having a small path leading to it can be very nice, perhaps a bit less practical, but absolutely lovable and worth living.

Topic split-level:
From an ergonomic point of view and in terms of space utilization, one can certainly argue about a few steps here and there - nonetheless, there are highly attractive solutions. I would not set dogmas here and instead look around to see what is possible and what an architect comes up with.

Setting any sort of level to place a flatland house on it will not lead to good architecture.

This should actually be pinned here, for the autograph books of all home builders: to develop the house with the instead of against the plot.

Hello everyone,

thank you for your great tips! We have now initially made a few contacts with construction companies and already had two meetings. We are currently dealing with the ancillary construction costs and trying to list everything. I have a question about this. I have read about house connection costs in many lists. Our plot of land is already fully developed. Does that mean we no longer have these costs?

In addition, I would like to get your assessment of the services included by the currently favored construction company:

- Individual planning and preparation of the building application
- Structural analysis, soundproofing and heating demand calculation
- Application for all necessary permits from utilities, gas suppliers, municipalities and authorities
- Preparation of 50th detailed construction plans
- Construction management
- Official site plans for the building application
- Official project staking
- Official height determination
- Construction power connection and consumption costs during the construction period
- Construction water connection and consumption costs during the construction period
- Construction site toilet and provision during the construction period
- Earthworks
- Drainage works
- Sewer connection works up to the transfer point at the property boundary (up to 5m)
- Inspection shaft
- Rainwater cistern
- Roof drainage ring pipe with connection to the cistern
- Load-bearing base slab 25 cm
- Masonry and concrete works
- Exterior walls in Ytong
- Basement: expandable as living space, in Ytong masonry, living space windows like ground floor, marble window sills, interior doors like ground floor, electrical installation, heating works, screed and interior plaster, staircase from basement to ground floor as a cantilevered solid beech wood staircase. Important: all earth and drainage works, light shafts, insulation of basement exterior walls, filling and compacting of the basement working space.
- Scaffolding works
- Carpentry works (in solid structural timber)
- Tinsmith works (in titanium zinc)
- Roofer works (e.g. manufacturer Nelskamp)
- Screed works (anhydrite screed in all rooms)
- Two-layer exterior plaster
- Drywall works (non-load-bearing interior walls are each double boarded!!)
- Window works (manufacturer Wirus or Schüco)
- Burglar-resistant front door with glass fillings in various versions
- Roller shutter works
- Burglar-resistant windows and doors
- Triple thermal insulation glazing
- Exterior window sills
- Interior window sills in Carrara marble
- Heating works (manufacturer Junkers)
- Air/water heat pump manufacturer Junkers
- Underfloor heating (pipe system, manufacturer Uponor-Tecto)
- Sanitary works (exclusively German brand products, e.g. Keramag, Villeroy and Boch etc.)
- Electrical installation works (e.g. manufacturer Merten Atelier)
- Intercom system
- Tiling works in bathroom and guest WC (floors and walls), material price 30 EURO/sqm (floors)/25 EURO/sqm (walls)
- Gravel driveway from the street to the front door (up to 5 m)
- Interior plaster
- Noble, cantilevered solid wood staircase in beech (manufacturer: company Treppen-Weiß)
- Interior doors with tubular chipboard core (e.g. manufacturer Garant, beech exclusive)
- Security package: smoke detectors, triple-locked front door, windows with mushroom-head locks
- Application for funding and KfW loans for your construction project
- Special purchasing conditions around your construction project with our contract partners (from baseboards to fully individually planned branded kitchens)
- Blower door test
- Including experts’ report and quality seal
- 5 years warranty according to the Building Code

For us, it reads as if quite a lot is already included?

Thank you very much for your help!