First self-draft - is it any good or complete crap?

The 4 meters thing first came up with my initial drawings. The house will probably be 30 cm wider and deeper, then all the rooms will be a bit bigger, where it is currently still a bit tight. Maybe some interior walls can be shifted a bit, then it should fit. But the living room will not be deeper than 4.5 m. However, I can play around with the width, since together with the dining area we have about 9.5 meters.

The wood stove is my wife’s wish. Besides, we have our own forest. Right now we heat our old apartment almost exclusively with a wood stove. It is a lot of work and dirt, but also cozy. Let’s see, if we find a good spot inside, then a stove will be built in right away; if only an exterior wall is possible, then a stainless steel chimney will be retrofitted later.

The additional shower still needs to be reconsidered. Maybe it’s possible somehow. Of course, it shouldn’t be too cramped, just so that I have an additional shower. An extra kids’ bathroom would be the ultimate, but probably not feasible.

Is it sufficient to plan only the large south-facing windows in the living-dining area, or should additional windows, e.g. clerestory windows, be included in the east or west walls? Currently we are considering taking 2 windows instead of 3, but wider ones. Current plan: 2 m, 2.5 m, 2 m --> new: 3 m, 3 m Then the top and bottom views would be the same. The only difference would be that, because of window cleaning, we cannot work with sliding doors and fixed glazing at the top, but would have to resort to casement doors (3 wings per window).

Hello,

-approx. 160 sqm living space + 80 sqm basement
-2 full floors
-hip roof (city villa)
-fully basemented, basement also usable as living space
-large garage (approx. 9m x 9m)
Floor plan square
Interior dimensions approx. 9.30 to 9.50 + exterior walls

As a KFW 70 efficiency house (including renewable energies), the construction costs for approx. 170 sqm living space (it will not be more with 10.20 x 10.20 m) should be around TEUR 260 on a slab foundation. Another TEUR 60 for the basement with an additional children's/guest room and workroom. If you are considering an additional WC in the basement, you have to calculate further costs for a lifting system with a macerator.

The garage – as a masonry garage, 2.70 m clear height – costs about TEUR 43.

So far, costs amount to TEUR 363; in Bavaria – depending on location – it can also quickly be about 8 points higher. In addition, there are ancillary construction costs of TEUR 35 - 40 – reserve TEUR 8-10 for additional foundation costs, plus TEUR 15 for painting and flooring, TEUR 15 for outdoor facilities as well as TEUR 10 for extras. All in all according to TEUR 452.

My thoughts on the floor plan:

You have poorly placed the additional WC on the upper floor; there will probably be problems with the drainage of the 100 mm pipe. The same applies to a walk-in shower in the bathroom if the thickness of the ground floor's upper floor slab is below 18 cm. The cupboards in the kitchen or the passage can be forgotten in my opinion. Think about mirroring the rooms bathroom/separate WC with room K1 ...

I expect to come to about 350,000 euros through a lot of own contribution. Without outdoor facilities, garden, etc.
If money is tight, then the garage will simply be built up later by own contribution and at first only the foundations and possibly the slab will be poured.

That is probably about right for a single-family house; in my opinion, you can’t save more. Besides the necessary knowledge, time is also an essential factor!

Kind regards

For the concrete ceiling, I am calculating with at least 25cm thickness, if not more. The piping for the controlled residential ventilation (75mm flexible hoses) is supposed to be integrated into that.

But why is that crucial for the lower rooms? Do you mean that I would have to direct the downpipe vertically downwards and therefore cannot hang cabinets where the pipe runs?

Swapping the children's room and bathroom/WC was also my idea. However, what bothers me about that is that I wouldn't have the heat pump nicely located under the kitchen - bathroom and would have long hot water paths in the house. I would like to save the circulation - that would probably be out of the question then. Besides, the additional WC window would "destroy" my nice view on the street side (north side).

Hello,

But why is that decisive for the lower rooms? Do you mean that I would have to lead the downpipe vertically downwards and therefore cannot hang cabinets at the spot where the pipe runs?

Yes; unfortunate in the kitchen :-)

...I would like to save the circulation -

With KfW 70 you are not allowed to install a circulation pipe! Ask your installer .... if you do it anyway, the structural engineer/energy expert refuses to sign and there is no KfW certification.

Besides, the additional WC window would "destroy" my beautiful exterior view on the street side (north side).

Building a house always means making compromises :-)

Kind regards

Can't the downpipe be accommodated in the floor structure or in the concrete ceiling? What's the problem there? It would probably be only about 1 meter? At my acquaintance's place, the floor-level drain is also in the middle of the room and the wastewater pipe runs in the concrete ceiling to the outside wall, about 2 meters. He has 25 cm concrete ceilings.

I don't need a Kfw certificate. That's only required if you want to apply for a Kfw loan, right?

Hello, is there anything new here? I found the floor plan very exciting.... It would be interesting to see what has become of it!