Difference in purchase cost between gas pump or heat pump

We have also installed the Geisha (the new one) since the beginning of 208:
..
- Heating element is disconnected (-12 Norm AT, so relatively mild)

So does it serve you well for 1 year now?

Why did you castrate the monoenergetic heat pump into a monovalent heat pump?

I have foregone smart control for photovoltaics, in my opinion it brings nothing. I make sure that it ALWAYS runs during the day in the heating period – for me from 9 am to at least 8 pm. Because then it’s warmer and the sun could shine. At night, when it’s coldest, it switches off depending on the outside temperature for 6 to 11 hours. If it’s very cold, it runs continuously. I shift the heating curve using a timer.

Over the year, maybe 30% of the heating and hot water energy comes from photovoltaics.

You can also simply let it run 24/7.

Depending on whether a smart control for photovoltaics costs a lot. But if I control it (smart) so that I use as much heat pump electricity from my own photovoltaic system as possible, isn’t that always better?

Since you seem to have experience with Geisha – have you also done tests on what is ultimately better? Running 24/7 or exactly as you currently do?

Another question about the Geisha. In my research, I read the following: "Die Geräte können zudem im Sommer zum Kühlen verwendet werden." That is an LW heat pump. How can I imagine that? With an LL heat pump, it would be clear to me, since you simply use cold air for cooling. But with an LW heat pump? If I have underfloor heating, no one pumps cold water through it in the summer for cooling, right? You would get frostbitten feet?!

2018 of course.

The heating element runs constantly during defrosting, unnecessarily – this cannot be completely avoided even with the control system. Therefore disconnected – but you don’t have to do that.

The control system costs about €200 at Panasonic or something like that. That’s not much, but even that I don’t save with a better control system.

I didn’t do a test, it’s easier in any case to just run it 24/7 according to the heating curve. But look: if it’s 10° during the day, the coefficient of performance [AZ] is often above 7. At 3° at night it’s often off, then the [AZ] would be worse AND there is no sun.

Cooling: yes exactly like that. Cooler floor. But you shouldn’t overdo it because of the dew point. Cooled vinyl probably already feels warmer than uncooked tiles. You can also build circles in the ceiling and deactivate the underfloor heating in summer, but probably no one does that just for cooling.

?? correct it

There are already several threads about this, but in short: the consumer-level devices that flicker above the screen have little to do with a smart home/house and certainly not the remote control of the devices via a smartphone, e.g., from the workplace. Controlling the blinds or switching lights remotely is nothing smart. It is what it is, simply a remote control.

I do hope that only those heat pumps that are intelligently controlled ("smart") are installed in the future. Anything else would be a waste of money (at least currently with feed-in tariffs, etc.)!?

The manufacturer couldn’t care less, nor does the heating installer. Of course, manufacturers want to build and sell the most efficient devices, but since every house is different and every person too, it is often up to the operator to set up their system appropriately.

With a LL heat pump it would be clear to me, as you simply use cold air for cooling. But with a LW heat pump? If I have underfloor heating, no one pumps cold water through it in summer to cool, right? That would give you frostbitten feet?!

But that’s exactly how it works. Cold water through the underfloor heating. Also more of a marketing tool here.

When I read this....Engineering studies to operate an air-water heat pump. Never. There has to be a power button and a control knob, the more you turn it, the warmer it gets, end of story.