Active and Passive Air-Water Heat Pump: Difference in Cooling

  • Erstellt am 2021-08-06 08:44:40

Dany250

2021-08-06 11:17:10
  • #1

That’s exactly what the coolers call "Peltier." Even that has always been something I didn’t understand :) . The thing somehow manages to reduce the temperature by 20°, without a compressor. To quote your following sentence again: “How am I supposed to passively cool a house with 30 degrees warm outside air?” I thought passive was the Peltier thing and active the refrigerator, thanks for the explanation... I think I understand now...


And here we probably have the answer to my question...
Technically it is probably possible, but perhaps simply not sensible.


Very, very nicely written and formulated! You really hit the nail on the head! The "constructed uncertainty" I create is usually my biggest problem! Really very aptly described...


I think that’s how I will now take it up and throw it into the pot, plan to include an auxiliary air conditioner and use it if necessary... I definitely think it’s a better idea than leaving it and later realizing it wasn’t sufficient...

Thanks to everyone who has already helped me here to understand things a bit better! So thanks to everyone who has already expressed themselves here...
 

Hangman

2021-08-06 11:27:56
  • #2
Cooling with a heat pump means that cold water is pumped through the underfloor heating. Whether the cold water is produced actively (air-water heat pump) or passively (brine-water heat pump) is pretty much irrelevant, and if you have already focused on an air-water heat pump, then it’s active. However, the effect is the same in both cases, namely a very moderate (about 2°) reduction of the room temperature. More than that is not possible due to technical reasons. And if you need more cooling capacity, then only an air conditioner remains. I am of the opinion, however, that house planning should preferably be carried out in such a way that it works without an air conditioner. And for that, it is important to keep the heat (especially solar radiation) outside. You are aware of the problem and will therefore pay attention to it. You have already mentioned [Raffstore shading]. With south-facing windows, one can work very elegantly with roof overhangs and/or building recesses, and the roof can be very effectively protected against heating with a [roof-mounted photovoltaic system] (especially with a [shed roof]). With a clever combination of these structural measures, the aforementioned 2° cooling by air-water heat pump should then also be sufficient.
 

Acof1978

2021-08-06 12:27:50
  • #3
I have learned that with underfloor heating it is not cooling, but tempering. Cooling is only possible through an air conditioner. Underfloor heating can only temper. However, this only works within a range of a few degrees Celsius.
 

RotorMotor

2021-08-06 12:55:28
  • #4
Tempering is cooling and heating. It is not differentiated from an air conditioner or by intensity. As already mentioned here, it is about dehumidifying.
 

apokolok

2021-08-06 13:25:26
  • #5

Your opinion is respected, but there simply is no golden rule here.
Either you design your house for a lot of light and heat gain in winter (large south-facing windows, small north-facing windows) or you do it like in Greece and maximize the cooling function in summer. The former is primarily implemented here due to the energy saving regulations.
Since we have both very hot summer weeks and very cold and gloomy winter weeks here, you can’t perfectly accommodate both. I don’t find it particularly bad to have air conditioning running in the bedroom for a few days or weeks in summer. If you also have a small photovoltaic system on the roof, it can be done somewhat climate-neutrally, since the generation and usage time of the electricity exceptionally match quite well.
 

driver55

2021-08-06 14:05:58
  • #6

Sort of: The cooling of the house is passive, but the air-to-water heat pump cools actively.
But in the meantime, all clarifications have been made. :D
 

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