Can a geothermal basket precondition the air for controlled residential ventilation?

  • Erstellt am 2022-08-22 18:14:17

TmMike_2

2022-08-23 09:43:12
  • #1

Right, the risk of condensation formation due to dew point shifting must not be underestimated. Back then I wanted to cool my ceiling as thermal component activation (but several people advised against it and so I have no experience). But as I said, this summer I didn’t even have 23° without cooling, so I will no longer buy the additional module for the brine-water heat pump for floor cooling.
 

Nixwill2

2022-08-23 09:46:23
  • #2
You are right, and yet there are (unfortunately few, but some) posts that operate it in connection with a controlled residential ventilation system. And this is where my question comes from... As I said, I have no idea about it at all...
 

TmMike_2

2022-08-23 09:48:26
  • #3

The heat basket is probably a brine circuit and cools the intake air via a heat exchanger (cooling coil).
That would now be my layman’s system design – as I said, I have no experience with it – but it should be more efficient than an air well. I would be interested in how much something like that costs.
 

Nixwill2

2022-08-23 09:58:20
  • #4
That's exactly what I would be interested in too :).

Also, how high the effort for implementation is and whether the same already planned devices can be used?
 

WilderSueden

2022-08-23 10:01:42
  • #5

Underfloor cooling is especially beneficial when you cannot ventilate the heat out. Here in the office, we have the problem that between 7 p.m. and 7 a.m. no one is here and accordingly no one can ventilate the heat out. With underfloor cooling, the temperature starts at 24 degrees in the morning instead of 28 degrees.
The problem is not only the air but also that a building made of reinforced concrete stores an incredible amount of heat. Once it is heated up, you don't just ventilate the heat out again in a few hours. Underfloor cooling absorbs the heat from the walls, floors, and ceilings.
 

rick2018

2022-08-23 10:05:50
  • #6
How large is the property? If there is enough space, suck in the air as far away from the house as possible. Pipes as deep in the ground as possible (5m-10m). Then the air is slightly pre-warmed or cooled. At night, ventilation on high with open bypass, and during the day only on the lowest setting. This is the design for a normal controlled residential ventilation, just like underfloor cooling, a buffer. The air is also not dehumidified. With an air conditioner, you have everything covered. If you need it, the sun is shining, and you can operate it with your photovoltaic electricity.
 

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