Then have fun. In a KFW40+ or even better without controlled residential ventilation. I can only advise you: First get properly informed on the topic before you compare new builds in the KFW40 + x class with your current old shack. Where your moisture still somehow escapes in the "old old place" today: In the planned building it will rather not or only poorly. Your window ventilation action contradicts all your ideas of efficiency diametrically. Especially in winter + transitional periods. You are an engineer. So a smart man! In another thread here you talk about heat contributions from refrigerators in a passive house and saving a heat pump and directly heating with electricity..... And then wanting to ventilate with windows. Yes: great. You: That just doesn’t fit together for me. You want to build something here that will not work. At least not in your sense. Well, it is/will be your house. You will then have to solve the later problems without controlled residential ventilation. I say this—unusual for me—uncharitable and blunt. Best regards Thorsten
You must have definitely mistaken me. I am no engineer and do not live in an old shack either. Besides, I’m not building any KFW-whatever nonsense but a run-of-the-mill Energy Saving Ordinance 2015. Efficiency is diametrically unimportant to me as well. My house is supposed to fit a 3-liter bi-turbo stinker diesel too.
As soon as a window is open, the balance is disturbed and the system tries to compensate by constantly adjusting the fan speed up and down...
Is that (always) the case? Why should it be? That would require volume flow or pressure measurements; somehow I doubt that commercially available controlled residential ventilation systems have something like that.
Just for the sake of completeness: An open window means fully open, not tilted, because we all know that a tilted window only cools the reveal but does not create an effective air exchange. Okay?