Can a geothermal basket precondition the air for controlled residential ventilation?

  • Erstellt am 2022-08-22 18:14:17

TmMike_2

2022-08-23 09:11:55
  • #1
Well, timber frame is basically the opposite of solid construction, I have no personal experience with that. Instead of your cooling trench, I would plan a split air conditioner on the upper floor. At least for sleeping and possibly office rooms. I also wanted to cool via the floor at first, but I imagine that feels unpleasant underfoot. If you want 20°C inside, the floor would need to be at least 15°C.
 

In der Ruine

2022-08-23 09:16:31
  • #2
I also wanted to build something like that, but had concerns. Cooling moist warm air underground leads to moisture and thus to mustiness or mold. Then the air should definitely also be filtered and, if necessary, soundproofed.
 

TmMike_2

2022-08-23 09:20:40
  • #3
At the very least, it is not enough to simply bury 30m of KG pipe 1m into the ground.
 

Nixwill2

2022-08-23 09:26:32
  • #4
The more I read, the more I am of the opinion that a geothermal basket is indeed something different from an air well. I cannot see a snorkel in any illustration on the internet...
 

RotorMotor

2022-08-23 09:34:27
  • #5
Yes, you usually connect a geothermal loop to a brine-water heat pump, don't you?
 

netuser

2022-08-23 09:38:21
  • #6


Floor cooling of course does not replace an air conditioner. Ultimately, full comfort gain is only achieved through the latter.
However, floor cooling is indeed "effective" within its limited scope and still brings noticeable comfort gains. At least that is our experience and that of all visitors who come in....

We also do not like cold floors, so we have parquet throughout the house (except the bathrooms).
The cooler wood generally feels pleasant and is rarely too cold. It is ultimately only a relative sensation, because it actually should not get too cold, at least not like in your example.
Because the floor temperature should not be significantly colder than the room/air temperature by 5-7°C in order to prevent condensation. So if my target room temperature is e.g. 23.5°C and the room heats up to 28°C, the floor temperature is about 21°C and thus contributes to cooling. This of course only works with "continuous operation" and thus proactively, so that the room does not heat up due to automatic temperature control. Ultimately also only "limited," but with 23-25°C at current outside temperatures of > 30°C, we are quite satisfied.
 

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