Air-to-air heat pump experiences?

  • Erstellt am 2017-01-23 09:04:51

Saruss

2017-01-28 12:01:29
  • #1
@Keks unfortunately your information is completely meaningless, I have to say. To compare consumption somewhat, you would at least need information about the approximate size, insulation standard, location, type of building, etc. And the information about how large the share of heating is in the electricity costs, because there are people who need 5 kWh electricity for the household and others 20 per day (e.g. with small children and there are 2 full washing machines and dryers per day), or you have 4 older daughters who shower endlessly.. I would also like to know the electricity prices, I pay overall rather 25C per kWh. The low humidity simply comes from heating the dry outside air, whereby the relative humidity drops. Moisture recovery is only possible with [Kontrollierte-Wohnraumlüftung]. from on the go
 

meister keks

2017-01-28 23:29:47
  • #2
@lauroon unfortunately not.

that's true, you can't do much with that. honestly, I don't know my insulation standard.

Regarding electricity what the basic fees are I will find out these days with the billing. Regarding controlled residential ventilation. what do you mean by on the go? I have controlled residential ventilation and the housing company said that the humidity cannot be regulated.

I will try it with the information. 120 sqm living area wood frame construction with 2 floors insulation standard rather low location? what is meant by that? 2 people
 

Saruss

2017-01-28 23:47:44
  • #3
If you have an LLWP, they mean precisely the one with "Controlled Residential Ventilation". The "problem" is the technology, i.e. the air-to-air heat pump usually uses the exhaust air from your house and extracts the heat from it; also the latent heat, and heats the outside air and distributes it in the house. Through this process, the humidity cannot really be regulated - it is simply dry. A dedicated Controlled Residential Ventilation can be equipped with humidity recovery by most manufacturers, so that the air is not so dry. Do you have a separate electricity meter for the heating system or does it have no display? For comparing heating costs, differentiation would be interesting. 120 sqm and timber frame construction is already a reference point. Usually, they are not badly insulated overall. The number of people is important because of hot water consumption. Location simply means region, so that you have a reference point for the temperatures. For example, in the Mosel wine-growing region it might be milder than in the deepest parts of Bavaria.
 

meister keks

2017-01-28 23:55:50
  • #4
then we will probably have to live with the dry air. I only have one meter. The system does have a control panel but I haven't discovered anything about consumption there yet. so I can only read the meter. but the refrigerator and so on are always on. location is in Carinthia /Austria.
 

laurooon

2017-01-30 07:19:07
  • #5
What I would also be interested in is your opinion on the acoustic insulation? How "sound-permeable" is the house? Can you hear music upstairs without it being noticeable downstairs? How loud are passing cars approximately? I have read that in wooden houses high-frequency sounds are still well filtered out, but low-frequency sounds such as bass or car engines are very clearly audible?
 

meister keks

2017-01-30 08:23:39
  • #6
so it is generally very noisy. no comparison to the old apartment in the solid house.
 

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