Controlled residential ventilation Dry air - is a humidifier the right solution?

Hi,

I have ordered the enthalpy exchanger for our 450'er Zehnder.

Thanks + best regards

Barossi

Hello,

the enthalpy heat exchanger for the 450'er Zehnder has arrived.

Set the system to maintenance mode, changed the heat exchanger and turned it on.

Does something still need to be changed in the menu? Or is it already running now?

Best regards, Barossi

Thumbs up from me as well. After 4 weeks in the new house with the Q450, we also replaced the normal heat exchanger with the enthalpy exchanger. Now about 50% and therefore perfect. Previously 35%. We also use the KNX module. So far everything works great! The device is quiet and we are already using various logics. For example, the controlled residential ventilation automatically switches off when showering to avoid "cold draught." You can notice that more quickly with wet skin..

Hello,

the enthalpy heat exchanger for the 450 Zehnder has arrived.

Set the system to maintenance mode, changed the heat exchanger and turned it on.

Do I still need to change something in the menu? Or is it already running now?

Best regards, Barossi

switch from HRV to ERV in the professional installer menu..

How can I change that in the [fachhandwerketmenü]?

Hello friends of controlled residential ventilation,

I hope I am not bringing up a too old thread, but the title of the thread does not yet fully do justice to its content. Because besides an enthalpy exchanger, an active air humidification system also counts as the class "humidifiers." And this is exactly where my question comes in:

My heating engineer recommends a controlled residential ventilation system from PLUGGIT. As known, this company does not offer enthalpy exchangers and gives, among other reasons:

[*
Only part of the moisture can be recovered, so air drying in winter is only delayed.


[*]This has already been mentioned here. Of course, if you regularly shower or engage in other moisture-producing behaviors, there should be enough moisture present. But one can question how universally this applies to everyone.


[*]The moisture is reportedly moved through osmosis in the enthalpy exchanger. Thus, there is always a water film on the membrane on the supply air side, which must be taken up by the supply air.
[LIST]
[*]Bacteria do not come from the exhaust air to the supply air side, as the membrane pores are too small for microorganisms. But bacteria can form in the water film present on the moist supply air side in the warm environment. The manufacturers always argue that the pores are small enough and say that they additionally coat the membrane with an antibacterial layer. In my opinion, they do this precisely because bacteria would form on the supply air side if this impregnation did not exist. Otherwise, it would not be necessary, since physically no bacteria can pass from the exhaust air side through the membrane to the supply air side. So for me, this is an indirect proof that this can be a problem (!). Otherwise, the impregnation would not be done.
[*]Does anyone also know how long such an impregnation remains antibacterial? Every impregnation loses its effect sooner or later.


[*]Active moisture control. You can individually set your humidity, and it is controlled via a control loop with a humidity sensor in the exhaust air.

So now the question: Based on the reasons given, is it worth investing in an actively controlled steam humidifier as offered by Pluggit? The price is comparably steep, about €2500 compared to €500-1000 for a passive enthalpy exchanger. In addition, there is the electrical power consumption, which I have no feeling for yet (of course depending on the choice of humidity).

Many thanks for your opinions and experiences