Which staircase did you take?

Hi,

The stair vibrations are perfectly transmitted into the masonry. That would NOT work at all for me.

Nope, far fewer vibrations are transmitted into the masonry here than with other stairs because, as I said, the bolts are in rubber bearings. With normal stringers or steel stairs, on the other hand, everything is transmitted unfiltered into the masonry because they are directly doweled.

But as long as there are no elephants walking on the stairs, that’s no problem anyway, as long as a house has proper statics. If cracks already appear due to stair vibrations, I wouldn’t want to be in that house during a storm or a mild earthquake...

Best regards,

Andreas

No, the bolts are embedded in the wall with rubber. That means there is an additional sound insulation/vibration damping between the wall and the staircase.

And a general question: Why would that be so bad? Because of possible cracking or because of soundproofing?

Good morning,

I am concerned about the topic of soundproofing; that is generally very important to me. In multi-family houses, it has long been mandatory according to recognized rules of technology that stairs be installed with structure-borne sound decoupling. With good execution, this is gradually becoming common in single-family homes as well. Our half-turned concrete staircase has 4 elastic bearings. The masons had steel protruding in the area of the bearings as "connection reinforcement" because that is common practice. So a change in mindset is only slowly taking place. I know many loud to very loud stairs. Some steel stairs sound as if someone is hitting a very large cooking pot with a wooden spoon. Depending on the natural frequency of the staircase and the adjacent components, this noise can be heard throughout the entire house if not properly decoupled. And structure-borne sound decoupling is not trivial; it is not enough to just put some rubber between two parts. This requires calculations or experience.

How exactly is it solved with the bolts and rubber in your case?

Here is a picture of our staircase
It was important to us to have a width of 1 meter, so that there is plenty of space in width.
As mentioned, knotty oak oiled.

Here is a picture of our staircase
It was important to us to have a width of 1 meter, so that there is a lot of space in the width.
As mentioned, knotty oak oiled.

Is the staircase only a quarter-turn?
The rise looks very high to me.
We also have 1 meter

Is the staircase only 1/4 turn? The rise looks very high to me. We also have 1 meter

Regards

Yes, 1/4 turn. Previously it was a 1/2 turn staircase. Unfortunately, the rise couldn’t be done differently. We have a rise of 19.9 cm and a tread of 25.2 cm. A lower rise would have been possible, but then the tread would have been only 23,x cm. And that was too little for us. So we preferred to remove one step. The walking width is 92.8 cm. I find that very comfortable. I would also have preferred a somewhat flatter rise. But unfortunately, there was a steel beam in the way that could not be changed. But we can live well with it.

We had decided on a white-washed wooden staircase with oak steps (both to the upper floor and to the basement). Personally, I simply like wood more than stone, so the decision for the material was relatively easy – even if it should creak a little sometimes