VHF vs WDVS facade - 1970 old building concrete/brick

With the protruding WDVS, the glass blocks become problematic anyway because less light enters (the edges of the protruding WDVS absorb light). I would replace them with transparent fixed glazing. The garage door is surely not insulated either?

Do you have more information about the wall structure? The data from your first post is not everything - right? (1970 - basement concrete, ground floor 17.5 brick)

Just an idea: additionally support the canopy, apply insulation on top, and build up a parapet (zinc sheet), properly seal it with connection to the house (at the new WDVS) and equip it with a light extensive green roof. This should improve this problematic spot somewhat. I also believe it would achieve a noticeable visual improvement.

For your house, a bottom/top formwork mEA visually seems almost perfect.

I am really not a fan of it, but on the ground floor (really only concrete?) I might possibly use EPS + plaster carrier and plaster?

Below, a white or lightly tinted plaster facade, above larch bottom/top formwork (with your large roof overhang I would dare it) plus the canopy as described above. I can really imagine it well ;)

Attica, why not. There is still the cold connection from the side wall and granite slab at the entrance. I am afraid to saw this canopy because of vibrations, etc. I already have a few settlement cracks. I also want to insulate the concrete (basement), including 50 cm deep into the ground. But behind the house there is a concrete slab that is connected to slope stabilization. Do you think it is possible to insulate the basement with EPS up to the ground floor boundary (or better continuous mineral wool) and then with floor/cover formwork (I didn’t know that before, thanks for that). The additional cost of ventilated facade compared to ETICS with wood fiber (nobody wants to do that) or mineral wool is about 30-40%. I somehow have difficulty with the glued mineral wool facade but maybe I am paranoid.

Attika, why not. It still remains the cold connection of the side wall and granite slab at the entrance.
I am afraid to saw this canopy because of vibrations, etc. I already have a few settlement cracks.

you won’t achieve much more without “major measures.” In my opinion, a thermal decoupling afterwards is probably not possible.

I also want to insulate concrete (basement), including 50 cm deep into the ground.
Just behind the house there is a concrete slab connected to slope stabilization.

Underground = perimeter insulation. EPS anyway for that, hence my thought to also do the ground floor with it.
Ground floor with EPS, on top of that plaster, etc.
The upper floor with mineral wool, the bottom/top formwork extends a bit above (in front) so that water from the upper floor does not run down on the plaster.
This combination is nothing unusual.

Do you think it’s okay to do basement with EPS up to the ground floor boundary (or better continuously mineral wool) and then with bottom/top formwork (I didn’t know that before, thanks for that). The extra cost from ventilated facade to ETICS with wood fiber (no one wants to do that anyway) or mineral wool is about 30-40%. I somehow have difficulty with the glued mineral wool facade but maybe I am paranoid.

Why glue mineral wool? It is clamped between the substructure... (that’s how I did it) with one story nothing should happen.
I have wood fiber insulation on the gable, my cousin (carpenter) did it with larch as bottom/top formwork.
A picture of the previous condition (fans almost falling out), and one with already grayed facade

If you clamp rock wool into the UK, then it is probably a VHF. Glued/doweled, the rock wool would be at the ETICS. I asked the offered Zimmerman, he recommends the fiber cement panels (indestructible) and rock wool also in the basement, only the floor connection with XPS. I see you have roller shutters and not blinds but probably the boxes were already there before. I removed my old roller shutters, bricked them up, since we first renovated inside. Now I would have to decide between aluminum blinds and external roller shutters, I tend more towards the roller shutters because of thermal insulation and a bit more robustness.

If the VHF or the [WDVS] is "thick" enough, the boxes fit into the system. Just need to have enough overlap because of cold bridge or stability. I have [Raffstoren] in the new house, which I personally find better than blinds. Never had to raise them because of wind/storm etc.

So the venetian blinds are definitely cheaper and I would only do the 6 windows where the sun comes in. Does the thermal insulation of the blinds make much of a difference when you have triple glazed windows?