Underfloor heating - How to insulate the supply lines to the rooms?

8-12 hours is already a lot. I can feel the underfloor heating here after 1-2 hours.

Not in a new building with a heat pump. There, - with correct planning - a maximum of 30-32 degrees runs through at the deepest winter. With parquet, you risk being asked by guests whether the underfloor heating is on at all.

. And when it no longer blasts,

A heat pump does not blast at all. It at most produces a mild breeze (figuratively speaking).

then you can also noticeably feel it in the bedroom, especially if the pipes are only minimally insulated.

In old buildings, yes. Not in new buildings. The new building is like a top refrigerator. If you turn off the power, the temperature does not immediately drop. The milk still has 9 degrees instead of 6 after 20 hours - temperatures develop like this in the house as well (only even slower). Rooms have fairly comparable temperatures there.

Hello.

I understand you, everything is correct and fine so far. This also applies to 99% of new construction projects, yet there are occasional houses that deviate from this standard. It is also true that you gradually heat the neighboring rooms. If it were that simple, you could make a heating circuit in the middle of the house and heat the entire house from there. That doesn’t work; there will be local differences, even if they are by far not as large as in an old building.

It is also correct that, for reasons of efficiency, one operates a heat pump with the lowest possible flow temperature. It also makes complete sense to forego a large buffer tank, which further increases efficiency. There are also projects where maximum efficiency is ignored and deliberately rejected. We have a 1000l layered storage tank. Just the costs for the tiled stove with everything included... for that, I could surely heat alone with the heat pump for 30 years. That will never pay off. But does every year’s new iPhone, the latest TV, or the newest car pay off? Or even a second vehicle? There are certainly reasons why one might deviate from the ideal picture. In any case, I’m already looking forward to lighting the tiled stove early and in the afternoon in winter. One burn releases about 30kWh of heat for the house (waste heat through the chimney already deducted). Of that, 21kWh goes into the storage over 3 to 4 hours and 9kWh into the living room and the flues. There is nothing nicer than chopping wood...

... maybe the system will later run with the minimum flow temperature, maybe not. What stops me from installing an actuator with power-off circuit open and integrating it into the KNX system? They can remain open. Then I can freely decide whether to leave the flow temperature as is or raise it a bit and use the actuators for that. I can do it, but I DO NOT HAVE TO. Are we here dealing with a religion where everything has to run according to a strict pattern?

The current new build narrowly misses KfW55. Flow temperatures are also quite low, but more than 30 degrees higher than in the new build. In winter, the flow temperatures here can sometimes be between 35 and 40 degrees. Our current smart home control works great with these flow temperatures.

... so maybe a few insights that not everything always has to be black and white. Maybe my possibility to control it is overdimensioned or I don’t even use it. Who knows, but it doesn’t matter either.

..., but then your question at the beginning of the thread is a question like which tires should be mounted on the car to save gas, while you have already decided on the 8-cylinder muscle car (instead of the electric car).

No. The question was how do I avoid excessive heating of the bedroom due to the through heating circuits. We are miles away from that.

Current new build narrowly misses KfW55 standard. Supply temperatures are also quite low, but over 30 degrees higher than in the new build. In winter, the supply temperatures here can be between 35 and 40 degrees.

Only if you deliberately design the heating to be correspondingly inefficient. An uninsulated old building with only new windows and attic insulation does not require such high supply temperatures (in winter). Just saying.

But since apparently you don't care about any information on the last five pages, I wonder why you even ask questions? Since money apparently also plays no serious role, I wonder how you end up with such strange planning?

But whatever. I'm out...

The question was different, but whatever.

You recite it like a religion. It’s simple thermodynamics and there is more than just the current approach.

That is also misleading. Where others buy/lease 4 cars in 12-15 years, I keep mine for 12 to 15+ years. I don’t care about the TV, just like the latest iPhone. But a tiled stove has highest priority. But whatever, you don’t want to put yourself in that position, instead you accuse me of ignoring your helpful information. Not at all.

… how many new buildings with a fireplace overheat at the slightest bit, because it wasn’t properly planned here

It doesn't matter. Save yourself the insulation. If you want to be able to control your heating circuits dynamically to be able to do it, do it. If it's about efficiency for you, don't do it. If you want a cooler bedroom, then insulate the walls and the door to the other interior rooms. Then it can also make sense to be able to open and close the heating circuits there separately and dynamically.