Position ignition points / LED spots / LED panels

I installed a 2.52m ceiling once. An average 68mm LED spot has about 500 lm, you need a larger quantity for spots with reflector, but you get better light with less glare; the UGR values are all around 20, which is enjoyable even in living spaces. I would calculate with 300lx in the living area at 100%, always make it dimmable! In the bathroom, make the areas above the shower IP54 or IP68 or omit them, and also above the bathtub; always include mirror and indirect light points in the bathroom, possibly even a central decorative bathroom light. In the bedroom, omit the row directly above the bed or make it separately switchable, always divide the lighting, or have a central light point directly above the bed instead of spots; definitely indirect lighting on the wall upwards or also run wiring under the bed. The hallway is fine. Tip: Add indirect lighting to all rooms as well and possibly include a central light point to switch around. I always recommend sampling light; LED spotlights produce very different light. Brumberg is generally recommended. Amazon can work or not, always sample. Planning is just a suggestion and for rough estimation; I did not recreate the layout with the sloped roof quickly, possibly more spots towards the higher ceiling because of light loss until reaching the area to be illuminated.

Thank you very much for the calculation! We will now think more carefully over the weekend about whether to work with spotlights or rather with surface-mounted lights. I don’t really like the idea of having to decide already; especially for children’s rooms or bedrooms, I would prefer to decide later, once the room is finished, which light and shape we want to choose. In the bathroom, spotlights definitely make sense.

In addition, some ceiling panels have already been installed in part, so double battens are no longer possible. Depending on the LED recessed spotlight, 42mm is not enough due to the heat generation behind the spotlight; you would also need a housing for it, which requires at least 65mm of space, but unfortunately I have only 30mm up to the vapor barrier. However, in the bathroom, a double battening can be done with comparatively little effort; in the other rooms, the effort would be disproportionately high.. :(

immer Spiegel und indirekte Brennstellen

Exactly! The mirror cabinet will be one of Ke*co with DALI, so you can control the light directly at the mirror and also via the light switch (or everything off etc.). You will also be able to adjust the color temperature at the mirror.

What I forgot to mention is: the room will only be tiled up to 2.4m high. After that, the room continues up to 3.5m. After the last row of tiles, I would like to install an RGB LED strip all around, which can also be controlled with KNX. I have already had the conduits installed for this. This will then indirectly illuminate the ceiling from below (blue line in the sketch), and you can set and dim both RGB and white (RGBW strips from ConstaLED):

Brumberg ist generell zu empfehlen

Yes, I have already shortlisted them. They also have tunable white spotlights, but I don’t know whether we will do that (cost/benefit). Otherwise, I have found some things from EVN with CRI>90. Ideally, I would like to use halogen with CRI=100, but that’s no longer done today.. :)

In the corridor, we will then, I think, forgo the spotlights (because ceiling panels were already installed there and double battens can no longer be done here) and provide an LED panel in the middle. For the stairs, I have placed individual spotlights at the bottom, which then nicely illuminate the stairs from the side.

Which program did you use to create your house 3D drawing?

With which program did you create your house 3D drawing?

With SketchUp. I started with the basic version (which runs quite well even in the browser), then at some point I switched to the Pro version because it has other features, e.g. the structuring of components, you can build everything nicely hierarchically and toggle visibility.