List of prefabricated house companies providers

Now I still ask myself the question: how can the direction be set if I have already planned with an architect who tends to design more towards timber construction. Doesn't the "whole floor plan" change again because of the wall thicknesses?

The direction is set during the dough rest, using the preliminary draft, that is, when the floor plan is still an omnipotent stem cell. Nothing changes in this respect, since nothing is fixed yet. Wall thicknesses are still hardly distinguishable: 330 / 365 / 380 mm at 1:200 scale, the reading glasses are not enough, you already need a microscope. But the structural engineer notices if the planner has conceived the house in a different "world" than the one it is supposed to be built in.

In this respect, I assume that my example manufacturers Meierhaus and Schulzehaus belong to the same faction. Whether sausage or cheese foil, chocolate or raspberry insulation is irrelevant here, because it does not shift a single window opening, does not affect ceiling spans, and so on. The advantage of choosing a non-stone architect for a wooden house thus remains fully intact. The timber frame panel builders practically invented the thermal insulation integral system; a thermal insulation composite system has no place on a timber frame panel construction. Here, I would draw the gray area boundary between "economy" and "wannabe with ascendant fake."

That is precisely the big mistake. One uses a 160 mm stud frame and then slaps on 1 mm EIFS (even explicitly mentioned on their homepage, a small company with 110 million turnover), the next has 200 mm studs, and so on and so forth. For years, manufacturers have only differed in the thickness of the Styrofoam they put on their timber frame walls.

330 mm wall thickness is really the cheap version. 360 to 420 to 440 mm, that’s where the differences lie afterward. And when then a 1-3 HOAI is planned and the structural engineer comes, it can get interesting. Because then the price also becomes decisive at some point. That is also the great danger of the "dough resting period."

If I may quote another manufacturer: between 360 and 420 sqm, there are 5 sqm of living space. These can perhaps be decisive, alongside the famous 15,000 euro additional costs, or maybe not.

330 mm wall thickness is really a cheap version. 360 to 420 to 440 mm, those are the differences afterwards.

Apart from the fact that the same nominal caliber wooden versus stone would be an apple-to-oranges comparison anyway, and monolithic 365 (rarer, but with a slightly increasing tendency 425) mm monolithic are the most common back numbers of the stone comparison participants, 330 was only an example from me, any similarities to real existing candidates would be purely coincidental. I do not comment on the regulars' table logic on Sundays that the thicker wall is of higher quality.

And if then 1-3 HOAI is planned and the structural engineer comes, then it can get funny. Because then the price also decides at some point. That is also the great danger of the "dough rest".

The structural engineer is involved in service phase 4. I would be interested to hear how you (apparently mis-) understood the dough rest.

I just briefly dropped out due to a lack of technical knowledge. But slowly I'm starting to wonder what advantages and disadvantages might still speak for the individual construction methods. It seems to me as a layman that if I build fairly "simply," meaning no/very little slope and no particularly unusual floor plans, timber framing is better. If it gets very special (and practically only then), rather solid construction. Is my layman's assumption correct?

You cannot build timber frames with ground contact. In this respect, on steeper slopes you quickly end up with a massive basement level with a timber frame level on top. Similar to the Walser houses, for example.

Regarding the regulars' table logic that the thicker wall is of higher quality, I do not comment on Sundays.

The structural engineer is involved in performance phase 4. I would be interested to hear how you (apparently mis-) understood the dough resting time explained.

You are just stuck in the Stone Age and not a wood specialist. Once again, very slowly for you: example mentioned here vs. K..: 330 mm with ETICS - naughty naughty, vs. 420 mm with ventilated facade: if you don't recognize the difference in quality, you should say so.

And it is also useless if the OP hires a budget architect but expects high quality. Because in the end, he has to pay for it ...