Hydraulic balancing air-water heat pump + efficiency circulation pump

Defrosting every 1/2 hour?
How long does the defrosting take?
What is the outside temperature and humidity?
How often has it been defrosted before?
However, the system continues to heat constantly, or does the compressor stop?

Basically, I would currently assume that the system is bringing much more heat into the house at the moment and therefore has to work more.
That was to be expected since all distributors are open.

The defrosting should actually not take long and should not have a major impact on the temperature in the house.

Still keep an eye on the power consumption and see what heating energy it produces from that.

Currently, according to the external sensor, 2.5°C humidity unknown...

According to the phone and weather app, around 0 to -1°C and nearly 90% humidity, and that has been the case since about early December, sometimes with fog since then the system also feels like it defrosts more often...

In the long run, I can't evaluate that; this is the first heating period for the house and heat pump...

Defrosting takes a maximum of 5 minutes

However, the defrosting processes have no effect on the compressor starts because the compressor basically continues running during defrosting thanks to the reversing valve. Otherwise, I would have many more compressor starts in the statistics.

I first need to find power consumption and the like in the complicated control system, which is a bit tricky and nested with Vaillant...

According to the controller, I have an overall annual performance factor of around 5.5

I just wanted to mention the defrosting so that it doesn't come back to bite us later because no significant change occurs as a result. According to the display, the system practically only modulates at about 50%.

The 5.5 is probably calculated quite optimistically by Vaillant :).

With the temperatures and humidity, frequent icing should be expected.

At 5 minutes duration not much will be lost, the heat pump basically only uses the available water from the circuit to defrost and does not extract anything from the house.
It would only be bad if you additionally use the heating rod, is it deactivated in the control?

Do you have a buffer in the heating circuit or does the supply line go directly into the underfloor heating?

I have a small buffer of about 18 liters as a series storage in the return flow and a bypass valve which I have disabled almost completely; the thing only made itself noticeable when almost all actuators were closed with ERR. Buffer and bypass valve could not be talked away by the general contractor/prefabricated house manufacturer. Once the system is out of warranty, the bypass valve will also be removed.

Yes, that will be done by my currently favored replacement Heizi as well. He explained to me that it is intended to ensure a minimum running time of the compressor when the ERR is closed, as otherwise it would keep turning on and off immediately. That is bad because it would not be sufficiently lubricated. The refrigerant is also the lubricant for the compressor. However, it is a flow buffer and only costs minimal efficiency. If you have the ERR inactive (actuators constantly on) as recommended, nothing will happen except that the buffer will simply be flushed. Mine is only larger (40l) but I currently have the Arotherm plus 75/6 in planning because of BAFA funding...

So the first 24 hours without ERR are over. Attached are the temperatures that have been recorded.

Change from yesterday:
Outside temperature dropped from 2.5°C to 1°C

Basically, I noticed that the system, regarding my defrosting theory from yesterday and the associated heat extraction, is now coming out of the defrosting process and the supply temperature is settling at 28.3°C with a supply temperature setpoint of 29.5°C. Yesterday it was still 26-27°C after defrosting at the same supply temperature setpoint.

This would mean to me that the screed temperature is now slowly increasing until there is no temperature difference between the underfloor heating surface and the room air temperature. As a result, the actual supply temperature would continue to rise until the supply temperature setpoint is reached or exceeded; at that point, no more heat transfer to the rooms takes place. Then the energy integral would have to activate and start to decrease (as long as the actual supply temperature is above the supply temperature setpoint). When the integral eventually reaches zero, the system switches off until the energy integral reaches the heat pump activation point again (120 min), then the compressor should also run again.

@ T in the north some questions regarding this:

Can anything already be deduced from the past 24 hours? In other words, keep the system running until the supply temperature is higher?
Or should the flows be adjusted now? According to the temperatures measured today, all rooms except the bathroom are within the setpoint, so can one throttle so that maybe the bathroom gets warmer? Or should one still keep hands off the system? To what extent does window ventilation of the house affect the balancing, the controlled residential ventilation runs, but the government still insists on tilting the windows.