Heat pump for KfW55 house 148 sqm

@ Monogamy is also not bigamy. I can only give you the technical distinction, as it is also used in the calculation/software. A monovalent heat pump cannot be operated bivalently, as there is no second heat generator. In your case, that is the heating rod, because the bivalent heat pump cannot achieve these temperature ranges. Bivalent is nothing other than hybrid, only it sounds better for marketing purposes. Often, the consumption of the heating rod is also concealed by not measuring its consumption at all, but only the consumption of the heat pump. Don’t always believe everything that marketing departments come up with or what the industry simply dictates. Heat pumps are also not climate-neutral, but it is excluded by political definition, using a power mix like storage since the Energy Saving Ordinance 2013.

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With inverter heat pumps, i.e. modulating heat pumps, the specifications are often given without buffer tanks, as these counteract. Therefore, inverter heat pumps have not become established either, which is due to the design planning and not the heat pump.

Brief sign of life:

Since 26.01., our monster in front of the house has been humming along. So far, we have no control technology in the rooms; it is running at 25°C flow temperature, we have at least 19°C in the rooms, up to 22°C due to solar gain. So far, 403 kWh of electricity consumed and 2017 kWh of heat generated from it. No hot water yet.

It turns off in frost. Without an error message. Water was refilled once in the HKL, seemed better, now the phenomenon occurs again, we are continuing to observe.

We don't live in it yet.

I'm curious.

Does the entire system run through the electricity meter, or only the heat pump without the heating element?

I don't quite understand the question. The entire system? The split unit outside and the tower (so to speak) inside are powered. I read the figures for power consumption and heat generation from the indoor unit.

That it turns off at sub-zero temperatures could be due to low water pressure, as the display always showed 0.8 bar then. Water was added and it ran, but then it was no longer sub-zero temperatures. When it was turned off by us, for example because it got too warm for working and a flow temperature of less than 25°C cannot be set, it showed 1.1 bar.

As a rule, both the indoor and outdoor units are wired so that they both run through the meter. However, I have often seen that the heating element was not connected through the meter. This then artificially improves the annual performance factor.