Heat pump with heat pump tariff?

We only have one meter... 0.248 cents per minute without a basic fee. After a lot of calculations, the heat pump tariff would be a bit cheaper.. but not by much.

Is the power really being cut off there? To my knowledge, there is a contactor in the heat pump that has to be connected separately, and the signal from the energy supplier is given through it. So the heat pump should remain on (turning off the heat pump every day is not good for it either), but it cannot heat.

The heating element could theoretically be connected to the other meter and operated with household electricity; usually, I think there is only one control signal from the heat pump, and it receives power directly from the distribution board.

By the way: For us, the savings with 3000kWh annually for the heat pump would have been just 2-3€ per month. We would never have recouped the extra effort...

Of course, nothing works during the blackout period. I meant that due to the blackout period, the water reservoir or the underfloor heating cools down and the heating rod then steps in after the blackout period to help quickly reheat everything (for example, at -20 degrees outside). New build Poroton brick 42.5 cm walls, KFW 55, 240 sqm heating area. Where do I get the energy demand from? Is it stated in the thermal insulation certificate? The 8000hw/year is just an estimate from me.

Do you already have an energy certificate or a heating load calculation?

The walls and the KFW level only help to a limited extent, as it depends extremely on the building design.

But the estimated energy demand seems "too high" to me.

For comparison:
125 sqm, Kfw55 (energetically rather poor building design).... 2000 kWh heating, 1000 kWh hot water (3 people).

So I would have guessed a maximum of 5000 kWh based on the information and a SW heat pump.... (layperson!)

I meant that during the lockout period the water tank or the underfloor heating cools down, and the heating element then steps in supportively after the lockout period to quickly reheat everything (e.g., at -20 degrees outside)

It shouldn't cool down that much. Therefore, as suggested by , consider the lockout periods when designing the heating system. And also think carefully about how often we've had -20 degrees lately.

the 8000hw/year is just an estimate from me

Only for heating and hot water? That might be a bit too high. Did you take the heat demand value directly from the heating load calculation? If so, you still have to divide it by the expected COP of the heat pump, then you get the electricity consumption of the heat pump. You can already calculate with a factor of 3 for the COP, depending on the air-to-water heat pump.