Floating solid wood parquet flooring installation, any experiences?

Tell me more about your choice. I also plan to lay engineered wood flooring (almost) everywhere and absolutely can't decide whether to float it or glue it down. So far, I've only ever laid floating floors, but I also have comparisons with glued floors through relatives. Both have advantages and disadvantages, so so far I tend to glue it down in my own home. The latter because it feels like it should be something "permanent." Also because it seems the advantages with underfloor heating and large continuous areas outweigh with glued floors!?

So I have laid floating flooring in several rooms and on large areas here. It just goes quickly and can be easily replaced if necessary. Sometimes it creaks in some spots, probably depending on temperature, but it's not a big deal. No one can really help you with this, as both options are justified.

Tell me more about your choice.

I actually got the idea of a floating installation with underfloor heating from this forum. Gluing is probably the standard.

In my case, the kitchen and living room are open and in a row, forming a total length of 10m. That is probably not a problem.

The only "disadvantage" of floating installation that I know of and that was explained to me by the company is the gap size at the transitions, which is larger with floating installation than with glued installation. I have a small but visible gap (maybe 2mm) under the door leaf between the hallway and living room that cannot be completely closed.

The walking feel is really nicer than with gluing. It has a very slight springiness. But enough that you notice it. And here and there the wood still creaks. It still needs to settle a bit.
I have engineered parquet because it is (for reasons unknown to me) apparently the only wooden parquet that is suitable for underfloor heating. Solid wood would warp too much with temperature fluctuations.

I have had Meister finished parquet here for about 1 year on underfloor heating and there are no real problems. The click connection holds it together anyway. My approach would probably also be the floating installation with appropriate underlay that doesn't creak unnecessarily. We also have that from Meister and everything is fine.

Here as promised a few photos. The floor was oiled on site after installation. The room is about 10m long. Under the floor-to-ceiling windows, a small oak strip was installed because the baseboards are too high. I am definitely very satisfied. And I'm happy that it smells like wood and oil. :)

Unfortunately, one photo is somehow upside down on its side. I can't get it straight again. If you want to see everything properly, you have to turn your screen. :D

Here as promised a few photos. The floor was oiled on site after installation.

Very nice! I have had my eye on a model from Meister with a very similar look so far. Will you tell us the name of your parquet?

The parquet itself has no name. I supported the local independent publisher who sources the wood from somewhere and therefore it has no fancy names. It is "stabilized oak flooring on birch multiplex, 12mm thick, 4mm oak parquet, rustic," oiled with Osmo hardwax oil natural with a bit of white (I don't know the number right now). There are countless parquet floors. If you want to oil instead of lacquer, then I recommend making sure that it is oiled only after laying. There are also pre-oiled planks available for purchase, but that is not as good. When laying, small height differences occur which can only be sanded away if the parquet is not pretreated. Also, you can choose any random oil color that then makes the floor appear for example whiter, warmer, more natural, darker, or so. Just go to a specialist dealer, preferably the smaller local company, not the hardware store.