Epoxy resin floor and cove fillet

Yes, that would certainly be the cheapest and easiest option. I found a picture on the internet that more or less shows how I imagine it.
That would really be the ultimate..o_O

I would like a 5-centimeter high cove base - for cleaning reasons - also in my new, small bathroom. In the 1950s (or so) this was more common in hospitals and I think: this is how an easy-to-clean transition between wall and floor should look! But it is done so rarely today that I have not yet seen any instructions on how to construct it. I have seen tiles that have such (somewhat smaller) curves (in public baths).

The separation (control joint) between the components: wall and floor is made because otherwise there will be cracks "somewhere". To make this watertight, these joints must NOT have any cracks. How this is solved, I have not yet understood.

Even without the curve, wet rooms are sealed with membranes at this point, but if moisture gets under the tiles, something has already gone wrong ...

Unfortunately, I cannot tell you anything helpful about this, but I am interested in the solution. (although for ecological reasons I try to avoid using plastic in construction ... but that is another problem :rolleyes: )

Does the picture really show resin or is it rather a raised PVC covering or something similar?

To those interested in this topic, some technical remarks without leaving the practical side. The 5 cm leg height for a cove joint comes from the hygiene requirements for food businesses and food processing companies. So, it is a regulation. Such a rule naturally cannot apply to one’s own bathroom. However, a questioner, as a builder, has decided to have this transitional solution floor/wall also executed for his own private rooms. There is actually nothing against that. Let us take a look at the solutions in the industrial sector. There are two initial situations: 1. we have a bonded floor construction (nothing moves there) and a masonry or concreted wall surface. 2. We have a bonded floor construction (as before) and a wall of a cold storage room in sandwich construction. In the situation under (1) there are no problems at all, the base foot is firmly connected/glued to the existing floor surface (concrete or bonded screed), after priming the wall surface the vertical leg is also firmly connected to the wall. In the second variant, however, we have to reckon with movements of the wall. In the builder who inquired here, on the other hand, there are movements of the screed, since this in a residential building will not be present as a bonded construction, but as a floating screed above insulation layers. Thus, the industrial part (2) and the private residential building have the same problem, namely unforeseeable movements between floor and wall. With the very high likelihood that cracks or detachments will occur somewhere and somehow as a result of (movement) stresses. How does one solve this problem field? By anchoring only one of the legs firmly, the other leg remains "movable," thus is not firmly connected to the wall surface. There is no single solution for this to make the transition watertight, since object-specific particularities must be considered. For tiled wall surfaces on movable walls or plastic walls, for example, a sealing tape is always integrated into the horizontal plane as rear sealing and run up 5 cm high. And that is exactly how it must be done here in the private property! In addition, cove joints can be produced manually with suitable shaping tools, or prefabricated profile bodies can be used, which are incorporated into the surface primer of the screed/concrete. These profiles can then be coated, better: one takes a color-identical sealant and rolls the outside color-wise in the same shade as the floor. The profile is only glued (with floating screeds) to the floor, not to the wall. And now the informed layperson will ask: how do I get it so tight that the rising leg is not leaking behind? Good question. This is not addressed by any current professional association regulations either. My own solution, which has been implemented in many industrial buildings, is that before placing the cove joint profile, its backside is provided with a swelling paste (in strips). This automatically seals with any water ingress by considerable volume increase. Or one inserts a swelling tape behind the profile body, for example from "TPH Hydrotite SS0330". The upper edge of the cove joint profile is then simply visually sealed with an elastic sealant. An acrylic or silicone cannot fulfill a sealing task permanently, but it does not have to in the above-described execution variant. It was used several years ago, among other places, in a wet area of a Berlin property according to my specifications – and it still keeps its promise to this day!
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Regards: KlaRa

that sounds well-founded to my ears.

If I try to put that in my own words:

The floating screed (movable relative to the subfloor and wall) is formed like a tub. The tub edge is firmly connected to the floor so that no cracks occur. This tub is watertight.

Between the tub edge and the wall, which can move against each other and thus become leaky, a material is used that swells when wet and thereby seals the possible movement gaps.
The joint between the tub and the wall (for example made of silicone) will probably let water through at some point, but behind it sits the actual seal, which “works” and seals properly when moisture occurs.

I like that – even if it sounds relatively complicated – ... where can an ordinary person get this sealing material and how is it reliably applied?

In any case:
Thank you for the explanation.

I like that - even if it sounds relatively complicated - ... where does an ordinary person get this sealing material and how is it applied reliably?

Such work, especially with reactive resins and then the execution with a cove on a floating screed construction, this field truly belongs only and exclusively in the hands of specialist companies! Because it is not done solely by the structure of the points to be executed. Expert knowledge about working with reactive resins, the corresponding mixing and application technique, but beforehand also the preparatory work such as grinding or shot blasting, all of this overwhelms the layperson’s hand! I have only given the information on how it could look in practice and how it would correspond to professional rules. ------------------- Regards: KlaRa