Drywall storage room / hobby room, tips

  • Erstellt am 2024-12-17 09:24:02

Prager91

2024-12-17 12:16:09
  • #1


So basically the separation is clear: pantry and hobby room - so we also want to install a FIXED separation. How exactly the hobby room will look in 10 years is up in the air - however, we want to separate the "nice" from the "ugly." Of course, it should also be something for the future and permanent, so I want to do it properly.

If I imagine it with drywall, plasterboard panels boarded on one side and mineral wool for insulation, I end up somewhere around 400€ all in all with filler etc.

I think that it would also be quite difficult to achieve this price with woodworking, so I almost suspect that drywall in this version is the most sensible way to do this.

Furthermore, we then also have the possibility to create more storage space for pantry shelves on the wall, for example.
 

Harakiri

2024-12-17 12:24:07
  • #2


25 kg is the rule of thumb per drywall anchor/cavity anchor for standard single-layer gypsum plasterboards. With gypsum fiberboards, you can theoretically apply much higher loads per attachment point; even simple screws can hold 30 kg loads – however, you quickly reach the structural limits of the overall wall construction. For both gypsum plasterboard and gypsum fiberboard, this limit is usually about 40 kg per linear meter of wall (using standard single-layer construction with typical board thicknesses, without special treatment of joints, etc.).

In other words: small shelves without large overhangs and heavy loads are certainly possible. Everything else needs a bit of planning – either through double boarding, wooden brackets/crossbars, or possibly even a full-surface OSB board behind. You can consider whether this might be an issue in the future due to repurposing – in that case, it would be best to prepare accordingly during construction.
 

Prager91

2024-12-17 12:26:12
  • #3


Thanks for your info!

There are quite a few tutorials on the internet for this, and I basically feel confident building such a drywall partition. Only when it comes to the door opening with subsequent door installation, I have some respect – are there perhaps some tips or special videos you could recommend for this?
 

Prager91

2024-12-17 12:32:40
  • #4
Fixing the wall on floating laminate flooring is not a problem, right? We don't have underfloor heating beneath it.
 

Harakiri

2024-12-17 12:35:23
  • #5
So I didn't find the topic of door openings that complicated – the tricky part is cutting the UA profiles properly (of course, nothing with small metal scissors like with the regular ones). In theory, you're not allowed to use an angle grinder on them, but probably nobody follows that rule (or you have a cold saw or electric metal scissors lying around).

I found the videos from Knauf and Rigips relatively well explained. If you want something even more pragmatic/practical.

P.S.: Oh yes, turn-pin anchors are devil’s stuff, I never really managed to use them properly (at least not in thin 50 profiles). I gave up and used other anchor solutions.
 

Harakiri

2024-12-17 12:43:43
  • #6


Probably not for the wall (as long as the floor anchors are long enough), but definitely for the laminate – it’s supposed to be able to "float," and you would be fixing it in place. Trouble is guaranteed. You have to cut out the flooring and also not forget the sound insulation decoupling at the profiles.
 

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