Drywall storage room / hobby room, tips

To install power in the wall, I would like to extend from a flush-mounted socket, is that feasible or not?

Does it make sense to chisel a groove next to the flush-mounted socket and extend the cables there using a Wago connector and then lay a cable accordingly along the entire length of the wall into the drywall construction? It shouldn’t be a problem, right?

Hm... Extending always carries the risk that you exceed the permissible loop impedance and the circuit breaker no longer trips safely in the event of a short circuit. Therefore, doing it yourself is always a bit tricky if you don't have the possibility to perform the appropriate measurements after installation. Apart from the fact that, as a layperson, you are not allowed to do it anyway.

Hm... Extending always involves the risk that you exceed the permissible loop impedance and the circuit breaker no longer trips safely in the event of a short circuit. Therefore, doing it yourself is always a bit tricky if you don't have the possibility to carry out the corresponding measurements after installation. Apart from the fact that as a layperson you are not allowed to do it anyway.

I just spoke with my electrician who wired our house:

"It is possible without any problems," he said.

So I can do it with my brother-in-law, who is quite good with electrical stuff. After all, it’s only about connecting sockets – it’s no rocket science.

For 60 cm drywall sheets, I need a 62.5 cm distance between the vertical profiles.

Since it logically won't fit perfectly up to the door, an approximate distance of profiles at 70 cm would be appropriate, or alternatively 2x 62.5 cm and then one larger distance.

My question is:

Do all the profiles need to have the same vertical distance? Which means that I would ultimately have more waste with the drywall sheets.

or

Can I theoretically aim for a perfect fit with 60 cm sheets, but then one profile would have a completely different distance - so it wouldn't be all even.

The correct approach is always to use the standard spacing, and for the last section where the standard grid does not fit, additionally install a stud so that there is *less* distance between the profiles there. This concerns both static and practical reasons (panel fastening), but also later traceability – if someone wants to do something with your wall in 30 years, it is always better if it complies with the standard.

For example, Rigips has a nice online configurator for drywall projects (search for Rigips Ausbauberater), where you can plan drywall walls down to the millimeter – including door openings, etc. In the end, you get a drawing with the recommended profile bottom edge and panel cutting layout.

Oh, I forgot, or more precisely overlooked - the axle spacing for 60 cm panels is 30 cm! At least that is the manufacturer's specification. What one makes of it is up to everyone, but I wouldn't necessarily skimp on profiles.