Drywall storage room / hobby room, tips

If you use OSB and aim for a normal door width/door height/door leaf, then you can certainly do without the UA profiles. And yes, you can also cut into one profile (at an angle) and fold down the ears – but for that you use a UW profile, not a CW profile. However, the special door lintel profiles have the advantage that they are usually pre-punched to the standard door widths, and you also have a control to ensure you can’t make a mistake with the raw measurements at the door opening.

Right, I might still use a door lintel profile after all; I find the pre-punchings quite helpful. However, that doesn’t change the fact that I also use the normal vertical profiles for the door opening since I’m sheathing with OSB.

Whereby: If I am not 100% accurate at 760mm for the floor opening width, the pre-punching of the profile at 760mm doesn’t help me either... I specifically did not cut out my floor in the door opening area. Therefore, I am quite flexible if I work without a special door lintel profile.

Update:

The frame construction is completely done and looks great.

The raw door width I have now is 76.2 cm and the height 200.5 cm

Attached is also a picture for better illustration!

Thanks again for your help!

Regarding OSB boards:

Unfortunately, due to space reasons, I only bought 165x65 cm OSB boards - so I have to cut already to 125 cm according to the frame construction.
Both OSB boards should then be screwed onto one frame structure, correct?

A gentleman at the hardware store recommended a drywall screw for fastening my 12mm OSB boards, which is actually intended for attaching drywall.

I was already skeptical on site and now after the first row of boarding I am doubly so.

The screw goes wonderfully through both the OSB and the stud profile, but after the OSB board the screw first pushes away from the stud profile, then pulls it towards itself and then sits quite neatly, however I cannot manage to countersink the screw in the OSB board, so the drill head protrudes and slips. I think it ultimately depends on the hardness of the material, depending on the type of wood fiber.

Now my question: The slight protrusion of the screw can certainly be "compensated" later with the GK board and I don't find it further problematic, but I have concerns about the stability. The screw should really press correctly with the head and not slip.

How would you proceed here? Enough stability, or really different screws? If yes, which ones? I have already read quite a bit online, but it seems to be a typical problem. I just wonder if I should simply overlook it or not.

The slight protrusion of the screw can certainly be "compensated" later with the drywall board and I don't find it further troubling,

Forget that quickly. The drywall board does not compensate for that. It remains hollow and forms dents if it is pulled to the OSB elsewhere, unless the screw disappears into the drywall beforehand. I pre-drilled my OSB boards with a countersink. However, there are also screws with more pull strength. Apparently, some people have had good experiences with Fermacell screws.

Forget that very quickly. The GKP does not compensate for that. It remains hollow and forms dents if it is pulled onto the OSB elsewhere, unless the screw disappears into the GKP beforehand. I pre-drilled my OSB boards with a countersink.
But there are also screws with more pull. Apparently, there are people who have had good experiences with Fermacell screws.

I’ve read that too – I’ll get some Fermacell screws and try my luck. If that doesn’t work, I’ll have to drill pilot holes, one way or another.