Drywall storage room / hobby room, tips

Oh, I forgot, or rather overlooked – the axle spacing for 60 cm panels is 30 cm! At least that's the manufacturer's specification. What one makes of it is up to everyone, but I wouldn't necessarily save on profiles.

Ah, so it is fastened again in the middle... Well then I'll take a look at it, or rather calculate it exactly and then preferably add a strut in the middle each time. I won't save on that.

Stupid question:

If I slide the vertical CW profiles into my UW profiles on the floor/ceiling - are these no longer fixed anywhere?

According to instructions on the internet, they are simply just slid in. But if I then attach my OSB boards on top, the profiles will probably slide slightly back and forth, so they are no longer plumb, or am I mistaken here?

And another question: I have already watched different videos. Knauf installs the door frame directly after creating the metal construction in one video without cladding beforehand. Does that make sense, or should it also be no problem to take care of the door afterwards?

The CW profiles fit quite tightly, usually you have to insert them at an angle and then "click" them in by turning. Normally, they don’t slip easily anymore, unless you knock them away - which rarely happens with sheathing.

It is not recommended, but I have punched them onto the UW profiles myself. This gives them enough room to move, but they still stay in place. As mentioned, not recommended; according to the manufacturer's specifications, they should remain completely free to compensate for the expansions of the boards, etc. However, since even the profile manufacturers sell punching pliers for this purpose, it is probably quite common.

I cannot imagine a door frame on the metal substructure - maybe with one of the Knauf drywall door systems, such as sliding doors that disappear into the wall or with a flush-mounted door. But these are all special cases.

If I screw everything with OSB boards, I can also use the normal 1mm sheet metal CW profiles in the door area, right?

The reinforcement profile is surely not necessary, is it?

And also the question about the door lintel profile: Can't I just take a leftover piece of the CW profile here, cut it a bit longer, fold the end pieces up or down, and screw them to the CW profile from the side?

I can't imagine that any reinforced profiles are necessary here if I screw everything with OSB boards, can I?

If you use OSB and aim for standard door width/door height/door leaf, then you can certainly do without the UA profiles.

And yes, you can also cut a profile (at an angle) and fold down the ears - but for this, you use a UW profile, not a CW profile. However, the special door lintel profiles have the advantage that they are usually pre-punched to standard door widths, and this gives you an additional check so you cannot go wrong with the raw dimensions at the door opening.

If you use OSB and aim for standard door width/door height/door leaf, then you can certainly do without the UA profiles. And yes, you can also cut into a profile and fold down the ears - but for that you use a UW profile, not a CW profile. However, the special door lintel profiles have the advantage that they are usually pre-punched for standard door widths, and thus you still have a control to ensure you don't make any mistakes with the rough dimension at the door opening.

I took a 760 rough opening width and will therefore use a somewhat narrower door - in height then 1985mm. So I also think that UA profiles are not necessary. I think I will simply use the normal profiles for this!