Controlled residential ventilation + fireplace + kitchen exhaust, does it work?

As written above: Even if you present a test certificate, it is at the discretion of the chimney sweep, and they almost always play it safe.

Ours even goes for 200% safety... Well, the Leda Luc is already hanging or rather the flush-mounted box, so whatever ;-)

We have to install a negative pressure monitor here, despite having a room-air-independent stove (DiBt approved), which in an emergency then switches off the controlled residential ventilation... Initially, we did not choose the negative pressure monitor and among other things took this stove,... But since our ventilation installer does not confirm the maximum negative pressure of 8 Pascals in writing, the monitor is required.

How much does such a negative pressure monitor cost and does the controlled residential ventilation then automatically switch back on when the negative pressure has "dissipated"?

Calculate with 1000 EUR plus installation. The USA (vacuum safety switch) only has a potential-free switch that is interrupted when there is a vacuum. The phase for the controlled residential ventilation and/or extractor hood is then switched off and switched on again after pressure equalization. Not very smart, but it works.

how much does a vacuum monitor cost

From €500 + installation

I’ll use this thread for my concern, as it fits me quite well:

We are currently planning our kitchen and are wondering whether to plan for a ducted or recirculating hood.

We do NOT have a chimney, so the decision for the "right" one could be easier.

We are building a KfW55 house WITH a central ventilation system.

The kitchen studio says that he plans recirculating hoods 90% of the time and that it is a "no-go" to make a hole in a well-insulated house to lead the fumes outside. The recirculating hoods have the same performance, and the odors remain in the room even with a ducted hood – he said that a range hood is not meant to get rid of odors. Both recirculating and ducted hoods do not do this. Is that really the case? That the odors don’t completely disappear – sure, that makes sense to me, but isn’t it "better" if I lead everything outside?

He also said that the controlled residential ventilation does not work properly with the ducted hood… Problems could arise (but he couldn’t really explain what exactly the problem would be).

Now to my question: What makes more sense? Do I even have a significant advantage with a ducted hood? As it sounds, I’d be stupid if I didn’t choose a recirculating hood? What would you advise me? KfW 55+ controlled residential ventilation + recirculating or ducted?

Controlled residential ventilation and exhaust is feasible if a regulated exhaust box is used, for example from Naber. Since the DH transports much more volume via exhaust than can flow in through the door openings from the supply rooms, a negative pressure would arise. Therefore, a box is needed that leads air outside during operation but also brings the same amount back into the house. At the same time, the box must be well insulated. Whether one wants to afford this in terms of heat efficiency is something everyone must decide for themselves.