Atypically high offer for ventilation system

In the utility room, I optimized the supply air so that the photovoltaic system and server cabinet are better supplied, confirmed by measurements.

Interesting that you have supply air in the utility room; I usually only consider it as an exhaust air room by default. Since we also have a server cabinet and photovoltaic system in the room, I would be very interested in your planning or optimization :)

In the utility room, everything is housed from heating to ventilation and server cabinet and photovoltaic system and washing machine and drying area. That’s why I have both supply air and exhaust air there and a tight soundproof door. When it is closed, you really hear ZERO ventilation noise. Of course, no air goes in or out then, hence supply air and exhaust air. I would do it that way again anytime.

The plumber simply let the supply air blow out at the top of the silencer, and the exhaust air at the other end of the room, but of course also at the top. I then measured temperatures for a longer time and noticed strong layering, i.e. the air exchange at the bottom (where the photovoltaic system needs the cold air) was too warm. I then guided a hose from the silencer outlet down to the floor, now the fresh air distributes much better throughout the whole room, temperature and humidity in the room significantly more even and faster back in the target range, fewer peaks.

Thank you, that sounds very good and sensibly solved :)

Absolutely Pro Controlled Residential Ventilation

You can save the most money if you have round ducts cast directly into the in-situ concrete instead of installing flat ducts that are 3 times more expensive, or better yet, do it DIY. We have 171 sqm and all in all we paid 8k (without the risk surcharge from the structural engineer for steel/concrete for the intermediate ceiling) and the heating installer would have charged 14k for a smaller dimensioned system. Year of construction 2021/22 If your general contractor has no interest but would still do it, insist on a proper design (better oversized and more ducts than having to operate at max load in the end). Want a little taste? https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/kontrollierte-wohnraumlueftung-waermerueckgewinnung-luftbrunnen-dunstabzug-abluft-und-unabhaengiger-kamin.38086/post-545490

Conclusion after 1 year of operation. Humidity in winter at 30% (yes, it is just dry) Little dust, almost ZERO mosquitoes/flies, absolutely PRO Controlled Residential Ventilation

This investment CANNOT be retrofitted, so you should do it right from the start.

A pipe is a pipe is a pipe and water cannot leak out of them.

With the major caveat that it has to go somewhere. For us, under the screed – where I’ll never get back to it. Therefore: have all pipes installed in advance and let them dangle in the utility room. Consider how to get the supply and exhaust air through the walls and everything is prepared. The device itself is significantly cheaper on the www than from the general contractor.

Oh yes, you also need a power outlet. And space.

I have also been considering installing a controlled residential ventilation system for some time. However, I consider it out of the question to save money with it. Costs for maintenance, filter replacement, cleaning, and electricity consumption are unlikely to leave room for savings. At least, this applies in our relatively warm region with a standard outside temperature of -11. Installing the air ducts in such a way that you never get access to them again is, in my opinion, critical. Retrofitting the controlled residential ventilation system should be possible for us with almost no additional effort.