Allegro-Haus GmbH experiences

...The underfloor heating is one thing and the water supply for showering etc. is another. The water temperature generated by the heat pump will not exceed a certain value.

Correct, therefore heat pumps are particularly efficient when the LWT is as described above (heating operation). For domestic hot water, it is naturally higher. Sensibly max. 50..55°C. This means that domestic hot water storage tanks must be dimensioned accordingly or a fresh water system used. For domestic hot water production, the annual performance factor is therefore somewhat more modest, which usually does not make much difference under "normal" conditions, since the annual energy share for heating is usually higher. All this can be clarified in advance (basic investigation).

...Which heating type is the most economical if you exclude gas.

There is no "most economical" heating system! In each building project, the conditions vary due to the specific framework conditions. What makes sense for A just barely works for B and leads to a money pit for C.

...A standard air/water heating system is to be used or should one rather prefer a brine/water heating system with deep drilling?

No one can reliably answer this question => basic investigation.

...Are there any experiences regarding the noise levels of both heating systems?

Brine heat pumps probably have the edge here, also due to indoor installation. For air heat pumps, one has to differentiate. In the more efficient and fully modulating split units, the evaporator is located in an outdoor unit. There are also combined units (indoor installation) that provide significantly lower COPs but are quieter outside.
So it also depends here on the specific framework conditions. In an absolutely quiet location, the outdoor evaporator can sometimes be perceived as disturbing. Then a brine heat pump with a source without "digging or drilling" can also be used. However, the COPs are more modest than with a brine heat pump with, for example, a vertical probe.
As you can see, everything has certain advantages but also disadvantages. Each can only be properly classified and assessed with a solid and exact basic investigation as well as overall planning.

With kind regards

Thanks first of all for your advice, further questions will surely follow.
Greetings and a happy Ascension Day

Correct, therefore heat pumps are particularly efficient when the LWT is as described above (heating mode). For domestic hot water, they are of course higher. Sensibly, max. 50..55°C. This means that domestic hot water tanks must be sized accordingly or a fresh water system used. For domestic hot water preparation, the annual performance factor is therefore somewhat more modest, which usually does not make much difference under "normal" circumstances, as the annual energy share for heating is usually higher. All this can be clarified in advance (basic investigation).

A bit more about underfloor heating:

We are now considering the planning of the floor in the living room, approx. 30m². We are facing the question: tiles or traditional laminate, parquet, bamboo, or cork.
I don't know if I'm right here:
Advantage of tiles: they are more robust and do not leave scratch marks, store heat longer, and are insensitive to moisture but also very expensive!
Advantage of the other coverings: there is a greater design selection.
Is the difference in heat storage really to be emphasized or rather negligible?

Who has been able to gain experience in this regard?

Thanks for the feedback

Regards

...Advantage of tiles: they are more durable and do not leave scratch marks, retain heat longer and are resistant to moisture but also very expensive!

Advantages must be differentiated according to criteria. Tiles have particularly high thermal conductivity, therefore, from an energetic perspective, they are the "ultimate" covering for underfloor heating. All other coverings generally have a higher thermal resistance. However, the VLT plays a not insignificant role. For example, with a heat pump as a heat generator, "warm" feet on tiles are rather a pipe dream.
The heat storage (inertia) is predominantly not in the covering but in the screed!

Best regards

Thank you for your explanations. As a beginner, you first have to fight your way through this jungle, so every good advice helps.

Another problem: our house is supposed to have a cold roof. Now I am concerned that since the bathroom is located upstairs, there might be condensation problems on the ceiling in winter. Should the roof be insulated?

Can a cold floor actually be used as a storage room? I am afraid that moisture might settle here. Therefore, I am considering having the floor insulated without elaborate cladding so that it can be used as a storage option. Is the effort worth it? What costs should be expected for a basic layout of 8 x 10m?

Thanks for the feedback

Regards

Either you insulate the roof or the ceiling. If it's done properly, you won't have any condensation in the bathroom. If the insulation of the ceiling is botched... it's raining man ....

You have to make sure on the cold roof that you, for example, don't lay OSB boards (use Rauspunt) and also don't lay any flooring within 10 cm around the edges. Then it stays dry up there and you can use the cold roof as storage. But only for things that don't mind heat and cold. There are special storage bags for that....

I would leave the cold roof as it is, because it has some advantages. The biggest advantage: Upstairs it's only as hot as outside in the shade. Anyone who has ever lived in an attic apartment knows what I mean.