1 cm gap between wall, tile, and door frame

Hi guys, now I'm facing the same question.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of the different solutions?
1. Tiling only up to the presumed later position of the tile
Pros:
- You can continue for now
Cons:
- You probably won’t get it exactly right, later the joint might actually be more of a gap or you have to leave a lot of space now and tile precisely later – I’d probably have to do that myself because bringing someone in just for that is expensive and creates a dirty phase (dust from tile cutting) that you don’t really want anymore.
- The joint will always be visible from the front later

2. Tile up to the door opening and put the frame on top of the tiles later
Pros:
- You can continue for now
- The tiler doesn’t have to come again later / you don’t have to tile again yourself
- No visible joint from the front
Cons:
Joint/gap between frame and wall in the side view

a) Fill the gap above tile height with acrylic
Pros:
Probably the easiest
Cons:
- Side view looks poor
- Technically correct? Maybe not optimal?
- Dirt catcher?
b) Notch the frame
Pros:
Visually probably the “cleanest” solution
Cons:
Not very easy craft-wise, quite a long cut at 120 cm height. If wall and tiles aren’t perfectly straight, a gap might still appear...
c) Finishing rail
Pros:
Also a visually clean solution, probably technically the second easiest
Cons:
The finishing rails are actually for the opposite side, i.e. for the tile side. How do you fix that on a frame? Or are there special ones for frames?

Do you have any other points?
How was it done for you and are you satisfied with it?
Who did it themselves and can give insights into the difficulty?

Side question:
You usually put L-angles or square profiles on the vertical outer corners of tiled walls and possibly the horizontal corners of boxed-in sections.
The upper edge of the tiled walls at 120 cm height, the tiler doesn’t want to include that as part of the flat rate. He says normally that’s done with acrylic and then also painting work.
I actually thought that would all be hidden with L-angles. He does not recommend it because otherwise it would look “too much” and would close off everything “too much.”
In any case, both, i.e. hiding it with acrylic or putting another angle everywhere, would be extra effort. That’s fine, they are already cheap anyway.

For me it’s more the question of how you would or did do it...

Looking forward to feedback, thanks and regards

Tolentino

I'm more concerned with the question of how you would do it or have done it...

Top edge of tiles and window sills, silicone/acrylic done by the tiler. Base tiles always left out in front of door frames and finished tiling after door installation (tiler about 4h), EL is also possible. Bevel edges on surfaces, stainless steel profiles. Tilers are very good at silicone/acrylic, but want to see a special certificate for it.

We have both variants. In the guest WC, the tiler had previously tiled up to the edge. The frame was then installed later. Because of that, we have a gap of about 1 cm at the top. I still have to close that with acrylic. I have already filled the gap with grout fillers, but a lot of acrylic will still fit in, and to be honest, it doesn’t look really great. In the guest WC, it’s not so noticeable because you don’t see it much from the side. Where you do see it, I wouldn’t want it. In the bathroom, the tiler (a different one) left the last tile out at first, then the frame was installed, and then the tiler came back and tiled up to it. The joint was filled with silicone in tile color. That looks much better and that’s how I would always do it. It doesn’t create dirt; if something needs to be cut electrically, it is done outside. But that was also agreed with the tiler and is of course no problem for him. You could also do it yourself if you trust yourself to lay tiles. I also glued the baseboards in the hallway to the tiles there after the door frames were installed. I tiled first, then the frame was installed, and then I glued the baseboards completely. I would do it that way again. We also cut them outside because it is travertine, which has to be cut electrically.