ypg
2013-09-26 20:24:01
- #1
Oh, there are major mistakes in there which, if corrected, point towards starting the floor plan from scratch.
1. The exterior walls should be drawn with at least 33 cm, the interior walls with 11.5 and 17.5 cm for load-bearing walls. This way, you will already get less living space and therefore fewer placement options. Possibly make the house larger in its dimensions, but keep the floor area ratio in mind (how much air do you have there?)
2. Musketier has already mentioned the staircase (by the way, I am the one who does not like the staircase starting at the door, but sure: sometimes it can't be helped )
3. Assign the blind spot of the guest toilet to the utility room
4. Strike out the utility room and replace it with a technical room. I also thought: nice, I have a great utility room here. But now I see from already existing houses in our new development area that the utility room of about 6 sqm is stuffed with all kinds of technology, where barely a washing machine fits. For a family of four, you cannot really manage there. So possibly use the storage room upstairs as a utility room and plan the kitchen spacious enough so that you can do without a pantry.
5. The guest room, which should later serve as a bedroom, should also be furnished with a 2-meter-long bed as well as a wardrobe with a depth of about 65 cm. So it should be at least 3.50 m wide. Correspondingly long enough to fit a (double) bed.
6. Bedroom: where is the spacious 3-meter wardrobe supposed to fit there? With your slanted wall, you will bump into the wardrobe when you want to go through the door. You should design this wall straight in the next draft.
7. The orientation of living rooms and ancillary rooms is not correct. This results in no qualitative living value.
As Musketier already mentioned, the views with the windows should be planned at the same time. Also, walls on the upper floor should be placed over the load-bearing walls of the ground floor. Otherwise, you will pay a lot of money for something that will be useless to you later: the statics.
1. The exterior walls should be drawn with at least 33 cm, the interior walls with 11.5 and 17.5 cm for load-bearing walls. This way, you will already get less living space and therefore fewer placement options. Possibly make the house larger in its dimensions, but keep the floor area ratio in mind (how much air do you have there?)
2. Musketier has already mentioned the staircase (by the way, I am the one who does not like the staircase starting at the door, but sure: sometimes it can't be helped )
3. Assign the blind spot of the guest toilet to the utility room
4. Strike out the utility room and replace it with a technical room. I also thought: nice, I have a great utility room here. But now I see from already existing houses in our new development area that the utility room of about 6 sqm is stuffed with all kinds of technology, where barely a washing machine fits. For a family of four, you cannot really manage there. So possibly use the storage room upstairs as a utility room and plan the kitchen spacious enough so that you can do without a pantry.
5. The guest room, which should later serve as a bedroom, should also be furnished with a 2-meter-long bed as well as a wardrobe with a depth of about 65 cm. So it should be at least 3.50 m wide. Correspondingly long enough to fit a (double) bed.
6. Bedroom: where is the spacious 3-meter wardrobe supposed to fit there? With your slanted wall, you will bump into the wardrobe when you want to go through the door. You should design this wall straight in the next draft.
7. The orientation of living rooms and ancillary rooms is not correct. This results in no qualitative living value.
As Musketier already mentioned, the views with the windows should be planned at the same time. Also, walls on the upper floor should be placed over the load-bearing walls of the ground floor. Otherwise, you will pay a lot of money for something that will be useless to you later: the statics.