Smart home control, provider / experiences?

For the power supply, you can initially take the medium 320mA one which costs 130, since you don't have that many devices, it will be sufficient and later you can use it for the external line.

To save on cable lengths and unnecessary wiring effort, I would rather work with flush-mounted interfaces instead of a binary input. Low voltage must not be installed together with 230V, etc., so for the binary inputs you would partly have to make separate chases and so on. Bus cables, on the other hand, can be installed together with 230V... so just put bus cable everywhere and wherever the roller shutters are to be controlled, simply put a flush-mounted interface there.

8x flush-mounted would be about 270 Euro...

And why don’t you just do the lighting as well?

I just looked at your floor plan... there are 14 roller shutters and about 14 lighting points.

So my setup would be (all MDT):

Power supply 320mA - 130 €
2x universal actuator 16-channel - 520 € (= 32 channels, you need 28 of them for the roller shutters, so you still have 4 left for lighting)
1x universal actuator 8-channel - 170 € (For lighting)
1x dimmer actuator 2-channel - 200 € (For lighting) (just an option, you can also simply switch everything, then it gets a bit cheaper)
8x 2-channel flush-mounted - 270 €
4x 4-channel flush-mounted - 180 €
1x 6-channel flush-mounted - 60 €
EIB cable 200m - 60 €

All in all = 1590 €

But you have lighting and roller shutters wired together in KNX right away and won’t have to regret later and tear open walls again just to make the lighting bus-capable as well. Additionally, you save on terminal boxes/junction boxes and the electrician has less effort because of that.

You don’t need a gateway because it is actually only needed for programming or later for remote access, but without ETS you can hardly do anything anyway... in other words, you have to buy the gateway later when the time comes...

The push-buttons come from your executing electrician, so there is no extra charge here, rather a lower price, because the boxes and switches at the windows for the roller shutters are omitted.

And if you go a bit further, you could install a presence detector in each of the two hallways for 90 Euro each, then you would save 1x 4-channel flush-mounted and 1x 2-channel flush-mounted and the push-buttons for those (79+? €), but you would gain comfort.

Hey, thanks a lot! I still need to think it over.

Why do you use universal actuators and not blind actuators, is there a significant difference?

I wanted to get a gateway - and then do the initial programming with ETS Lite.
Right away, a question: Did you create your functions via the logic blocks - or do you run that through a server?

To save cable lengths and unnecessary wiring effort, I would rather work with flush-mounted interfaces instead of a binary input. You’re not allowed to lay low-voltage together with 230V, so for the binary inputs you’d have to make separate channels partly, etc. Bus cables, on the other hand, may be laid together with 230V... so just run bus cable everywhere and put a flush-mounted interface wherever you want to control the roller shutters from.

I somehow don’t quite understand that, why do I have to lay low-voltage with a binary input? There’s only the bus signal from the switch to the binary input, from there to the actuator and then to the roller shutter, right?

Universal actuators because you can keep costs lower with them... you have 4 channels left to switch lights or sockets... otherwise there is not really a difference... pure blind actuators can usually only be used for blinds/shutters.

Ok gateway for ETS Lite... you could also do the entire installation with it if you create a project for 1, 2, or 3 rooms, there is more programming effort but no ETS costs...

All my logics run via the built-in intelligence in the devices themselves... no separate logic server is available.

Regarding low voltage... how do you imagine the connection between the normal button and the binary input?

With universal actuator correct, then best yes a universal one, a shutter. Saves a few €

No logic server? I currently still have a comprehension problem.
Example: If the actuator says: shutter down --> does the sensor (reed for example) always have to have sent - or can I also query actual states? Is something like that possible in the parameterization?

Low voltage:
Just read the data sheet of the binary inputs again. There are variants with 230, 24 or potential-free.
Ah, wait, then I would have to pull an extra cable with star wiring to the shutters in order to connect it to the binary input, at least for potential-free.
Although that would have to be done anyway for possible reed contacts on the windows.
Correct?

It depends on where your reed is connected... not all devices can query actual states... but almost all devices can cyclically send actual states... in other words, you usually can't ask, for example, what the status of your window is right now, but the device to which the reed is connected can continuously send the state on the BUS depending on the configuration... without querying, that is...

Logic servers are really only necessary for complex logics... something like lowering shutters at dusk and raising them at sunrise and not lowering them if the terrace door is open can easily be done with the built-in functions of the actuator... among other reasons, this is why the devices are so expensive, because you are also buying a lot of intelligence with them...

A switching actuator with power measurement, for example, is already a logic engine in itself with a million logics and switching functions...

Yes, there are usually binary inputs potential-free and 230V...

For potential-free you need two cables per button in the distribution box and 230V from the actuator to the motor.
With 230V it is similar but more complicated, because you first need to bring the power to the button and then from there back into the distribution box to the actuator and from there to the motor.

With built-in interface on site it is simply easier... the bus cable at the button and 230V from the actuator to the motor are enough, nothing more is needed...