Renovation costs mid-terrace house built in 1995 - and consultation

About the doors. He really wants to replace them. I suggested that we could maybe paint the frames and just replace the door leaves, but he said painting the frames would be just as expensive. Which is true, because if you do everything (floors and walls), the yellowed doors no longer really fit.

What else I noticed. All the radiators are turned down. The craftsman said that with the temperatures being quite low now, you should heat as a precaution so the pipes don’t get damaged. I will pass this on to the real estate agent, but what do I do if they don’t take care of it and something gets damaged? The seller should still be responsible or accountable until the handover of the keys, right?

Why always tile over? Why can't you remove the old ones? I just don't understand that. It's not rocket science and then you can check the screed.

You can also foil doors. My husband did that in the basement, looks good. If you have to save money, I would try to also bring in as much EL as possible.

Hi,

we are right in the middle of the complete renovation of our terraced house built in 2000.

We have completely painted the brown door frames and doors white.
The result is great!
Costs: About 350 EUR for primer, paint, rollers, sanding machine
Plus 100 EUR for new seals and 70 EUR for new handles (total 10 doors)

You can figure out how much we saved compared to new doors and frames.
And it’s also sustainable because all the old doors are intact, just no longer nice.

We used the water-based paint AquaNova Pro M from Adler.

The same awaits the still intact brand kitchen (Nolte), which just has an ugly color. It will get a new countertop and handles - done.
We will proceed the same way with the stairs.

Our bathroom upstairs is still okay, we just didn’t like the terracotta floor tiles. What did we do?
We painted them with tile paint from Misspompadur. Processing was top and the result really good.
In addition, there is a new washbasin and some nice accessories, and you have an almost new bathroom for little money ;)

We just removed the tiles in the hallway downstairs and the kitchen.
A really nasty job. The tile adhesive was one with the screed.
Currently, we are preparing the screed for the new flooring, filling in broken corners and leveling unevenness with leveling compound.

So just get a little smart, don’t skimp on material, and get started :)

Except for the wall breakthrough between kitchen and living room done this week by the master bricklayer, everything here is 100% DIY (just my partner and me).

PS: Professionally, we are both "office warmers," not professional craftsmen by any means. The motto is simply to dare and do ;) Knowing your own limits and letting a professional handle tricky things (see wall breakthrough). Then it will work out ;)

Nevertheless, I am thinking of visually livening up the bathroom a bit. Maybe new floor tiles (tiling over) and (...)

Well, this approach is possible, but I wouldn't do it that way, as the next tile layer requires about 15mm in height: Provided mechanical pretreatment, primed and filled, an elastic floor covering would also be an option for the bathroom. Total height for this (with filler + adhesive layer): approx. 8mm

Thank you very much for the response What would you actually prefer in the living room or bedroom/children's room: parquet or vinyl (I am more in favor of parquet) and if parquet, then lacquered or oiled and for the installation method floating or glued? I have received different recommendations from two floor layers here. In the end, it is probably a matter of taste.