Placement of parking spaces / carport on the property

  • Erstellt am 2021-07-15 16:14:33

wullewuu

2021-12-29 21:53:49
  • #1
For your information: The base slab including insulation is 32 cm + approx. 16 cm insulation/screed/finished floor. Thus, the calculation is: FFP 205.87 - 16 => RFB and practically the end of the plinth. From there it goes down 32 cm to the underside of the base slab. Thus, in this area you have the plinth and can model the terrain between 205.39 - 204.71.
 

Hangman

2021-12-30 11:10:26
  • #2


Sounds like a plan :) Better take 5.5 m. Even that is already tight, because you don’t want to touch the plaster with the bumper every time. I would move the carport as far south as possible. Neither the neighbor nor you benefit if you move the carport further north. If the neighbor can look over it, it's okay for him, and he also has a clear view (and winter sun) towards the southwest. You can use your northeast corner well for additional storage, compost/leaf pile, shady summer spot, or similar. I would try to keep that as free as possible. In short, I would orient myself by the heights, front door or so, and stay as far forward as possible. Basically, we are back to the original plan, and with this arrangement, you can actually go back to 8+ m (i.e. carport including storage room). What I still don’t understand is how to handle the different levels of entrance & carport then.

I can imagine the different levels on the plot. You have to do something because of the slope anyway. Whether you separate it strictly architecturally with L stones or something more organic is a matter of taste. The levels don’t have to be perfectly flat. With 20-30 cm slope on each level, you almost eliminate the offset anyway. As far as the foundation is concerned, you have to (if not done yet) get a soil report anyway. In our case, for example, the result was that we had to have a flat plateau at least 2.6 m wide on the valley side of the house for the required load transfer.

Regarding the east boundary: of course you can raise the entire length. You just have to step down following the terrain towards the north.
 

wullewuu

2021-12-30 13:10:37
  • #3


Thanks. One thing unsettles me though: the foundation is without frost skirts, which is technically okay, but it means the gravel extends beyond the slab. That doesn’t matter in front of the house or on the east/west sides because of paths, etc., but in the north I would like to plant near the house so it’s not such a bare corner, especially if I then still retain 1.5-2m with L stones there. Is that doable? Nothing will grow on the gravel... but I can’t just remove gravel (about 1 meter from the house wall) and fill with soil, can I? Wouldn’t that make the foundation unstable? Or am I just thinking like a layman? But I also don’t want a 2m death strip of gravel around the house...
 

11ant

2021-12-30 14:23:15
  • #4
I can only recommend to all home builders with special slope stabilization needs to read up on two fields of knowledge from which valuable hints can be derived: firstly, dike construction, and secondly, the boundary security of a forty-year-old field experiment for socialism on German soil: in this sense, "L-shaped stones" are just a wall without floodlights.
 

Hangman

2021-12-30 16:04:00
  • #5
Alternatively to the Deichgraf, you could (and should) discuss this with your planner. It is not uncommon here for a house to protrude 1m from the terrain. Whether this is done with frost skirts, strip foundations, lost masonry, or something else, I don't know... but it seems to work. So you could also "raise" the northern part of the house a bit and "plant away" this area (as it is called here). From a purely gut feeling, I would also prefer that rather than a gravel mound that I hope does not diffuse away in the next decades.
 

wullewuu

2021-12-30 18:57:33
  • #6


By "sock up" do you mean what I mean: wall or L stones to level the height? The question is whether you can simply plant there ‍♂️
 

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