Omit the single room rule? Controlled residential ventilation + gas heating, new construction

I have already read quite a bit on the topic. I am convinced that the regulators are useless because the underfloor heating is much too slow. With controlled residential ventilation and/or open doors, the air is distributed throughout the house anyway. We don’t really use our ERR or at least I don’t feel that it does anything. I would like to live without it in the next house, just need to convince my husband...

And from my point of view, it also hits the same note as SAT-no. You don’t need it but if you want to sell the house, you’ll be looked at strangely. You know what I mean? My first and only house viewing didn’t have an ERR, as a layperson you think oh man what a botch job.

When selling, the exemption helps again as an argument against botch jobs or as a positive feature.

The ERR issue is specifically relevant for heat pumps, where ERR has concrete disadvantages. With gas, I’m with you. You can do it, but you don’t have to.

How about pulling empty conduit instead of installing? If necessary, it can be retrofitted at any time.

Then you might as well pull the cables right away. It’s only about roughly €1k here. We have the taped-over boxes for the thermostats with cables to the distributor in almost all rooms (hallways not prepared). Looking back, I would have built completely without ERR; wireless is the insurance.

What is probably not allowed either, but can make sense, is to supply two small rooms with just one common circuit. For example, in our case, the guest bathroom and utility room share one circuit, since that was the only way to get a reasonable length. Nothing can be retrofitted later there.

By the way, the Energy Saving Ordinance does not require electronically controlled thermostats; mechanical solutions are sufficient. You can simply leave these fully open and have the issue resolved.

The OP's goal is to save these costs... I am venturing out on a limb here but I doubt that the quoted 1500 includes anything other than exactly the mechanical gauge tools you describe.

I completely agree with the OP on why throw money out the window for obsolete technology that is practically useless.

The OP's goal is to save these costs... I dare to slightly step out on a limb, but I doubt that the requested 1500 includes anything other than exactly the mechanical throttle valves you describe.

I fully agree with the OP on why throw money out the window for obsolete technology that practically has no function.

Yes, that's how it looks, just to clarify, is the hydraulic balancing done by the heating installer via the flow of the individual heating circuits? If I now think that the bathroom should be 1 degree warmer, the flow would have to be increased manually at the radiator valve, if there are 2 radiators for the bathroom then both in the same measure? Can a lot be messed up and also affect other rooms? Actually not because the pressure is kept constant? I understand that the maximum temperature depends on the flow temperature, but you can still manage a 1-2 degree difference between the bathroom and living room well via the flow?

If I want to lower or raise the whole house, would I have to shift the flow temperature curve parallel on the thermostat?

Does it actually make sense with controlled ventilation and underfloor heating to lower the temperature, for example from 4 p.m. to midnight, and raise it from midnight to 4 p.m. to reflect the inertia and to reduce the temperature by 1-2 degrees at night?

Thanks