Newly built single-family house KfW55 standard - How to heat?

Annual average rather 60 euros monthly. This is now in the optimized state. Previously with HB transfer we were at an annual average of about 100 euros monthly.

Then your heating design is simply crap. Sorry for the harsh words. The consumption is a total disaster. I currently have similar costs per sqm in my apartment from the 60s with normal radiators.

Then there is also the bathtub size and whether a rain shower is installed. No joke, you notice it all, for example, if you have a 300-liter buffer and your rain shower has a flow rate of 20 liters per minute, you have to load the buffer twice a day. Or 4 people who shower 10 minutes every day.

Just as well, how the 24 degrees in the bathroom are achieved through the laying distance or a higher flow rate of the heat pump.

If then your heating technician comes with the basic settings, or even if the customer service only makes rough adjustments, you notice it on your wallet.

That’s why it’s important to teach yourself what really matters.

For example, I have now reduced the circulation to a minimum, the heat loss in the storage tank has thus dropped to about 6 degrees in 12 hours. Previously, 6 degrees in 6 hours.


Especially with the help of the aforementioned forum. But I think there is still more potential, but for now, it’s enough.

Then your heating design is simply shit. Sorry for the harsh words. The consumption is a total disaster. I currently have such costs per square meter in my apartment from the 60s with normal radiators as well.

He has over 180m2 and a basement, so please do not compare it now with a 140m2 house, then it was about 40 euros and that is absolutely normal.

On top of everything already mentioned, add that every degree more of room temperature in winter also directly affects the wallet. However, manufacturers only provide consumption values for the generally "usual" 19, 21, 22°. Sorry, but that is not warm for everyone in winter. The supposed "saving" by shutting off and not heating rooms actually causes the opposite because it only increases the heat demand of the surrounding rooms, which then have to heat the unheated areas (since it is a heated envelope). For example, an electric underfloor heating in bathrooms (in a non-passive house) is a foolish idea if there isn’t the usual underfloor heating below it providing basic warmth.

Hot water has already been mentioned. Every liter counts here as well. It is best to install as much heat recovery as possible here, too.

No question, heat pumps are a great technology—if the house, the area, and the user behavior fit.

What does an air-to-water heat pump actually consume on average per year? Would we get by with 3,000 kWh p. a.? How can you calculate something like that? *KfW 40-Plus, 180 m² living area., fireplace, underfloor heating, controlled living space ventilation, 21-22 degrees consistently in all rooms or bathroom (total 21 m²) 23-24 degrees Of course, it depends on the manufacturer/model, among other things. But there should be some kind of "rule of thumb" for it, right?

It does not depend so much on the installed heat pump, but rather on the house, the user, and the settings. 3000 kWh can be accurate. Precisely when the house, the user, and the design fit.

short is always relative... Compared to a conventional underfloor heating, however, the shorter response time is correct.

Yes and no, because you still have to bring the same amount of heat into the room and have the same supply temperatures as with a normal underfloor heating. Since an electric underfloor heating usually has little or no screed covering, the distance the heat travels back is shorter and it heats up only a small amount of storage (screed). As a result, a room cools down faster when it is off, and the heat is transferred to the room faster when it is on. I cannot assess how much faster it is, but in my opinion it will not be that much due to the low supply temperatures.