Irrigation system for a large (still) empty plot

Thank you very much. One more question about the filter. There are sieve filters and disc filters. Disc filters are supposed to be better and cost only slightly more. I have now chosen one with 120 mesh. Because for the drippers, filtration of 125 microns is recommended. For the MP rotators, it is certainly better if the water is filtered as well. Since I still have enough space in the well shaft, I would install the filter there in the main line as mentioned. For the drippers that branch off from different valve boxes, I don’t need to install a separate filter for each one, right?

The filters also need to be cleaned sometimes. You are supposed to recognize this by the spray range of the sprinklers or by installing a pressure gauge before and after the filter. I will probably rarely see the spray range because the irrigation is mainly supposed to take place in the morning between 3 and 6 am. However, I don’t have room for 2 pressure gauges and they would also cause pressure loss again. So I would have to clean the filters based on a fixed interval. How is it in practice? I would probably clean for the first time after one month and then extend the interval depending on the degree of contamination (as far as I can judge as a layman).

Best regards

We were also looking for which filter to use back then. At that time, we decided on the Gardena pump pre-filter with 6000l/h. It is a mesh filter but unfortunately with a transparent plastic housing. Algae kept forming in it, causing the irrigation to stop working, so it always had to be cleaned thoroughly. In the second year, we bought a disc filter from Rainbird. Much cheaper, black plastic housing (so no more algae), great flow rate (about 4000l/h), and very easy to clean (unscrew, pour out in the sink, rinse with water... done). Ultimately, it doesn’t matter whether [Scheibe] or [Sieb]. Much more important is that no sunlight reaches it, but in terms of cleaning, I really find the disc filter great.

Basically, the type of filter does not matter. What is important is to install it in a place where you can easily reach it. How often you need to clean it depends on the water source, the filter, and the usage. In our family properties, it is cleaned once at the start of the season. Always cisterns with middle water extraction. If the water comes directly from the pipe, you will have even fewer problems or won't need an additional filter at all. For wells, it depends on how sandy the water is. Probably 2-3 flushes of the filter over the season are enough. Just don't use a filter for "home use" like Gardena but for professional use like Hunter, Rainbird...

I have less light for algae growth in the well shaft. But the filter I selected is also black from the company Irritec. It should also be for professional use, right?

I have been thinking and researching for quite a while about how to make the transition. Maybe you have a tip.
Unfortunately, I only have detailed shots now.

I come in at the bottom with the well pipe. Then it goes via a conical (i.e., self-sealing) threaded fitting onto the press control unit.


At the top, there is again a conical threaded fitting and then it goes with a 90° reducer from 1" to 1/2":



Finally, the shut-off valve comes.



Now my idea is to dismantle the valve and the 90° reducer.
Then I want to install a normal 90° piece (a), then a T-piece (b) with a reduced middle outlet, where the 1/2" valve is attached. Here, during the conversion phase, I can still draw water normally and later, for the winter, always drain the remaining water from the line.
After the T-piece, I would go to a connection (c) with 2x fittings with union nuts made of PVC. Then comes the filter, and then again the fitting with union nut and then a PE pipe male-thread union fitting and then on with the PE pipe.

I am having some difficulty with the parts a, b, and c.
So what material are a and b? By now, I would guess malleable cast iron galvanized.
Can I simply screw the connection with the union nut on there? Will it be tight (with Teflon tape)?

I have also already seen transition pieces from PE clamp connectors to stainless steel fittings. But from PVC to malleable cast iron, not yet.

Regards

90° is always bad for the flow. Just use the PE fittings from unidelta. They also come with threaded connections and you can then connect directly to the PE-HD pipe. With Teflon it will be absolutely tight.

Well, but the well pipe comes straight out of the ground and I have to somehow go sideways. So I have no choice but to use a 90° elbow. This fitting to get to the PE pipe is correct, but I first have to connect from the metallic pipe with something to the filter and then from the filter to the PE pipe.