Irrigation system for a large (still) empty plot

Sprinklers are also available for connection to DN32. The short supply line to the sprinkler (1M) is then DN25 or smaller. Here you only need the flow rate for the respective sprinkler. The quantities are more than sufficient.

At the valve box, you reduce from DN40 to DN32. The distribution inside the box is DN32 and is reduced to DN25 at the valves. Out of the box, in the zones behind the valves, you go back to DN32. If you connect another valve box in series, do so again with DN40. Clearly, 2" valves would be better, but that doesn’t make sense with a normal cistern and a normal pump.

Line losses should not be underestimated. Therefore, it is better to use large diameters from the start.

If you have the filter and main valve just behind the pump, you don’t need to blow it out. The water level in the line drains very slowly through the pump. If you want to be on the safe side, you can also install two compressed air connections. One on each side. I have also seen solutions with a 3-way valve.

We have larger valves. But we also have a pump that delivers over 40m3/h and 8 bar in the main line. This is DN75, sub-distribution DN63, DN40 to and between the boxes, and DN32 in the zones. This has nothing to do with normal irrigation for a single-family house anymore. If your property weren’t so long, you could also go with DN32.

All right, now I understand! I will arrange for the supply lines to be installed in DN40 and the valve boxes to be planned accordingly. Thanks a thousand again, I'll get in touch when there's news! Best regards, Hausbaufaehig

Hello ,

you know Hunter very well, so it is not least because of your recommendation that I want to build a small modest system with their rotators. What makes me suspicious about the description regarding pressure and flow rates is that the technical data of the rotators contain no information at 1.7 bar and only start upwards. Does that mean the rotators are not usable at this relatively low pressure? Unfortunately, I will probably only manage something between 1.7-2 bar at the outdoor taps and therefore stumbled over this.

Maybe you can say something about it?

Thanks in advance!

Tell me more about your planned installation. Size, pipe lengths and dimensions, number of sprinklers, circuits...
Do you want to connect the rotators directly to the outdoor water tap via a hose?
Why is there so little pressure at the outdoor water tap?
For the sprinklers to even rise and function properly, they need at least 1.7 bar at the sprinkler.
That means all pipe losses still need to be added.
With such low pressure, you also have too little flow. That won't work like this.
But there is also a solution for this. I know an installation like this. A programmable pressure booster was installed in the house system.
It only runs when the irrigation is on. Of course, it can also be installed only in the line for the outside.
With such low pressure, however, I would use it for the whole house.
Optimal are 3-4 bar at the sprinkler. Then use pressure-compensated housings. This way, all sprinklers in the installation have the same operating pressure.
Take a look at, for example, the DAB Esybox (Mini). Depending on the required performance, an appropriate model. It can also be switched by pressure fluctuations.
With such low pressure in the house, barely any water comes out of the shower head on the second floor...