New sprinkler system

whether the lawyer Bird pop-up sprinkler can also be connected to the Gardena laying pipe. Or whether lawyer Bird offers its own laying pipes.

They all offer their own pipes... whether Gardena, Hunter, or Rainbird...

But in any case, it is a standard 0815-PE drinking water pipe in 25mm... I took the one from Marley when Gardena was all gone and you can’t tell the difference, since it’s actually the same pipe.

And Gardena may be cheap, etc... but what I really like about them are the fittings for the pipe... everything is laid out in no time, and you don’t need more than a shovel and a sharp knife.

If I want to connect the whole thing with Loxone, I also need an irrigation computer.

Why? I think you want to connect it with Loxone? Or is the connection then just pro forma and the irrigation computer does everything.

So either Loxone or irrigation computer... both absolutely makes no sense.

The system is supposed to run independently at some point with weather data and moisture sensor in the soil.

But that will not change anything about the system itself... it will still bring the same results as now... which deserve a grade of 3 if you want to judge by school grades.

a landscaper recommended lawyer Bird to me!

So I had actually already focused on that!

I would take Hunter... these are comparable to Rainbird or you take a mix of both. e.g. Hunter sprinklers and Rainbird nozzles.

Or I will do it like this someday (when the Gardena sprinklers finally give out)

[*]0815 pipe from the hardware store
[*]Fittings from Gardena
[*]Hunter sprinklers + Hunter and Rainbird nozzles (depending on the task)
[*]Valves from Hunter/Rainbird
[*]Connection box and water sockets etc. from Gardena
[*]Control autonomous with some irrigation system or something self-written in KNX
[*]Drip hose from Hunter/Rainbird

we have Gardena entirely. the piping and all the connectors are really good. it lays easily and quickly, the digging is still the most annoying part.

a pipe cutter is highly recommended. you can get one for under €10 on Amazon and you don’t have to puncture the lines with a knife or something like that.

all threads in the system are 3/4" and thus ultimately compatible with EVERY system, if necessary with an adapter. of course, it’s important that your system has pipe threads.

our system has now gotten through the first winter well and everything runs perfectly. draining in time and bringing in all non-frost-proof items helps immensely.

we have 2x the square sprinkler os140. unfortunately, others hardly offer something like that.

I have now gathered the following:

Cornat irrigation system PE-HD pipe in a coil, Ø 25 x 2.3 mm, 25 m

Gardena 2771-20 sprinkler system T-piece, 25 mm, Quick & Easy

Pop-up sprinklers:
Hunter PGP -04 ULTRA
or
Hunter pop-up sprinkler I-20-04-SS Ultra stainless steel riser

Would that work? Do I need anything else for the connection to the pop-up sprinklers?

Regarding the Loxone control. Since I do not have Loxone up and running yet (it is supposed to be installed quite soon!), the water supply for the pop-up sprinklers would initially have to be turned on and off manually at the faucet. That isn’t a problem for now, is it?!

Do I need a connection box or something like that? Which one is recommended?

Do the pop-up sprinklers require electricity or do they come up just by the water pressure?

Basically, everything is still missing. How do you want to connect the hose to the water tap, how to the sprinkler, and how do you want to use 2 sprinklers/Pop-up Sprinklers without a T-piece?

As mentioned a few posts above, we use everything from Gardena. Just take a look there. For example, it says exactly what is available and what you need. You obviously need an adapter socket from the buried hose to a hose for the water tap/pump. You need T-pieces, elbows, pipe connectors, fittings for the sprinklers, and most importantly, a drainage option for winter (frost protection). And if you’re at it, you might also want to install water sockets to be able to tap water at other places in the garden (very clever). For that, a second water circuit is absolutely necessary! Otherwise, you could only draw water there if the sprinkler was on. You also have to measure the maximum throughput of your water source (tap). You can’t just connect 20 sprinklers to 1 water tap... The sprinklers only work through pressure and water. Electricity is usually nowhere necessary.

By the way, what ends up making the price is all these fittings, T-pieces, etc... Pipes and sprinklers are maybe 50% of the price, the rest quickly adds up.

: Thanks for your detailed answer. Yes, I already understood the whole thing with the T- and L-pieces. I basically have the entire system from Gardena now, including the drainage valve.

Last night I did a test on my faucet. The 10l bucket was full to the brim after 35 seconds! Is that enough to run the square pop-up sprinkler?

the os140 has a nominal flow rate of 560 liters/hour. at 35 seconds per 10-liter bucket you get about 17 liters/min * 60min = 1030 l/h.

so you can use almost 2 of these sprinklers simultaneously. but then the connection is at its limit and might possibly not throw as far. in the end it depends on the pressure and of course also the pipe length. if you want to use 1 such sprinkler and nothing else is running at the same time it will run without problems with a pipe length of around 10-15m.

definitely remember that the pipe must also be drained for the winter! there are basically 2 systems. the pressure switch from gardena, which opens without pressure on the pipe and lets the water escape. it has the huge disadvantage that the part probably clogs relatively quickly and then always drains. if you turn off the faucet the part would also empty the entire pipe every time (so at every start the pipe has to be filled first).
since the gardena parts are unfortunately no longer the quality they once were you basically have to always turn off the water. my hose once even flew off directly from the faucet. good that I was outside, otherwise the terrace would probably have needed renovation... nowadays I always turn everything off, it's just safer.

the second method I think I already explained above. you put a closure/valve or simply the gardena end cap at the end of the pipe. in autumn you open/remove this and the pipe drains. advantage: the pipe does not drain every time. also the thing can't clog. disadvantage: you need a "hole" somewhere that is deeper than the buried pipe. for me it's the inspection shaft of the rainwater infiltration. another disadvantage: you must not forget to drain in autumn

a theoretical third method would be burying the pipe at frost-proof depth and having the pipes for the tinsmith go vertically up. still, at least the water in the vertical pipe would have to drain out...

ps: the pipe must of course have a continuous slope towards the outlet even the slightest slope is enough, 1% or less is more than enough. the pipe must never go upward. I have about 15cm height difference over 20 meters length. the pipes survived the frost well last winter.