Irrigation system for a large (still) empty plot

The main valve must be installed before all consumers. That means before all watering cans and all valve boxes. A DN40 valve already has a certain size. Therefore, it will not fit in a valve box if there are other valves installed there.... Your arrangement won't work anyway because otherwise, you would have to lay a line across the entire property again. The control unit doesn't care where it is. You just have to lay a control line there. Pump -> Filter -> Main valve -> T-piece for once forward and once backward -> each valve box(es) and watering cans. You can connect the tapping points in series. The valve boxes also have a throughput. Only one tapping point runs at a time. You can also take the watering cans directly from the main line since you can switch them with the main valve. Saves line length. If a watering can, for example, should be behind a valve box, you simply go out of the box again and then install a watering can. But you cannot connect circuits in series because they always have to be drawn from the respective valve in the box. In the valve boxes, just use electrical boxes and Wagos (not the usual cheap grease connectors). After successful function testing, fill these with Aquasit. This way, you can access them again later and they are sealed. Up to the valve boxes, simply lay an empty conduit where you pull in the control lines.

The main valve must be placed before all consumers. That means before all water spigots and all valve boxes. A DN40 valve already has a certain size. Therefore, it will not fit in a valve box if there are other valves there.... Your arrangement won't work anyway because otherwise you would have to lay a pipe across the entire property again.

All right, thanks!

The control doesn't care where it is. You just have to lay a control line there. Pump -> Filter -> Main valve -> T-piece for once forward and once backward -> each valve box(es) and water spigots You can connect the tapping points in series. The valve boxes also have a passage. Only one tapping point runs at a time. You can also take the water spigots directly from the main line since you can switch them with the main valve. Saves pipe length. If a water spigot should be, for example, behind a valve box, you just exit the box again and then install a water spigot. But you can't connect circuits in series since they always have to be drawn from the corresponding valve in the box.

I have never had a garden or had to water one, so sorry in advance for the stupid (follow-up) questions. But if I also put the tapping points/water spigots behind the main valve, won't the pump pressure switch react when I tap the water spigot? In contrast to irrigation with Hydrawise, would I then have to switch the valve to flow manually beforehand?

In the valve boxes, you simply use electrical junction boxes and Wagos (not the usual cheap grease connectors). After a successful function test, pour them with Aquasit. This way you can access them later and they are sealed. Up to the valve boxes, you always lay a conduit where you pull in the control lines.

Sounds good, noted!

Yes, exactly, then you would have to turn on the main valve. It's easy with the app. This way, the water valves are switchable. If the water valves are located before the valve, the water will leak away in case of leaks. Or someone just switches it on...

Hi rick2018,

thanks again for the advice! I'm currently writing everything down, and I came across the following:

" For these pipe lengths to the distributors, I would go with DN40. In the circuits DN32."

The Hunter valves mostly seem to use 1-inch internal threading, does that mean you always have to work with coupling pieces (DN32 => DN25) at the inlets and outlets of the boxes? If yes, does that then reduce the overall flow again to 1-inch level? I don't think so (it's not a LAN cable), but I want to understand the background :(

Best regards,
Hausbaufaehig

The 1" valves have a maximum flow rate of 9m3/h. So not really a bottleneck. Ideally, valves in 1 1/2 inch would be best. But they are not so easy to get. 2 inch would be over the top. With the larger pipes, you have significantly less losses in the lines. The boxes are also available pre-assembled for DN32. Use the pressure-regulated housings. This way the pressure at the sprinkler head is always the same. And you also don’t have to worry about balanced distribution in the circle. Drip hose from Rainbird XFS. With the filter, you add a main valve and a compressed air connection. In autumn, simply close the main valve, attach the compressor, and run the irrigation program once.

The 1" valves have a maximum flow rate of 9m3/h. So they are not really a bottleneck. Ideally, valves would be 1 1/2 inches. But they are not so easily available. 2 inches would be overkill. With the larger pipes, you have significantly less loss in the pipes. The boxes are also available pre-assembled for DN32. Use the pressure-regulated housings. This way, the pressure is always the same at the sprinkler head. And you don't have to worry about balanced distribution in the circuit. Drip hose from Rainbird XFS.

Sorry, I don't quite understand this yet :( "The boxes are also available pre-assembled for DN32." For the inlet, I would even need DN40 = 1 1/2 inch. What does the DN32 refer to then? When I look at pre-assembled boxes, it seems that the maximum for inlet/outlet/valves is 1 inch = DN25 = 32mm, often only 3/4" = DN20 = 25mm. That’s why my question about the coupling pieces: Apparently, the sprinklers/rotators also have a maximum 1-inch connection, which means I would have a DN25 outlet on the box, connected to a DN32 pipe that is in turn connected to a DN25 sprinkler. Does all this really work like that? Maybe I’m mixing up the units?

With the filter, you also install a main shut-off valve and a compressed air connection. In autumn, simply close the main shut-off valve, hook up the compressor, and run the irrigation program once.

Good idea! What do you actually do with the last piece of pipe, that is from the pump to the main shut-off valve? There is nowhere to blow out the residual water there, right?