Install controlled residential ventilation yourself, stick to the schedule, costs?

I am currently laying 40 + 30 mm insulation - 120 would of course have been nice. But otherwise, the insulation itself is somewhat unnecessary in terms of the dimensions, because hardly any insulation is needed anyway.

We do it ourselves as well, on the ground floor with 8+3cm insulation with round pipes, on the upper floor 5+3cm with flat ducts. The worst part is the planning beforehand, as you really can have almost no crossings, e.g., with electrical installations. Price-wise, with Helios thanks to equity prices, we end up at about €5000 all inclusive.

, greetings back from Mr. Schliebe...

I now have the offer, which is in your size range. Everything sounds not bad so far. The problem will be my GÜ, who unfortunately uses a somewhat strange floor structure. He calculates 160 mm and it is composed as follows:

50 mm insulation
30 mm tack board
70 mm screed
10 mm tile/parquet

We wouldn’t be able to fit the 52 mm flat ducts in there. And their standard in the program is that when ventilation is installed, the floor structure is immediately increased to 190 mm. That would reduce the ceiling height in the upper floor to 245 cm and is basically a no-go. The current 248 cm is the absolute minimum for us. On the ground floor we have 260 cm ceiling height, where we could go down to 257 cm, which would still be acceptable...

Why he is doing the structure this way isn’t quite clear to me and the planner couldn’t really answer me either...

Couldn’t something like this be done:
70 mm insulation
20 mm tack board
50 mm screed
10 mm tile/parquet

What is the minimum thickness for the screed?

Best regards,

Andreas

Hm... now a really dumb general question to the group:

Why do they put such insanely thick insulation under the screed inside the house? Just to hide the ventilation pipes? There are no thermal differences between the ground floor and the upper floor, so there’s nothing thermal to insulate there.

So are these 50-80 mm purely impact sound insulation? Wouldn’t, for example, 10-20 mm of sound-proof rubber mats or bitumen be much better suited for this purpose?
This EPS stuff isn’t really soundproof at all, is it?!? It decouples the screed from the raw concrete ceiling, but that’s about it, right?

I don’t want to pour bitumen into my house, don’t worry, it’s just a question that just came up for me...?

Best regards,

Andreas

Without the insulation, the underfloor heating would not work effectively.

She would definitely become incredibly sluggish.