Install controlled residential ventilation yourself, stick to the schedule, costs?

  • Erstellt am 2016-01-12 12:57:33

andimann

2016-01-13 18:02:50
  • #1
Why should that be?

For the basement floor, sure, no question.
But for the ceiling from ground floor to upper floor? That’s all in the same thermal zone. Air temperature on the ground floor is 20 °C, air temperature on the upper floor is also 20 °C, and the temperature of the ceiling concrete is also 20 °C. You heat the ceiling either way. Either through the underfloor heating from above or through the room heat from below (and thus through the underfloor heating on the ground floor).
Yes, with temperature changes and large temperature differences, the insulation may make a difference. The insulation ensures that you can have a lower temperature on the upper floor than on the ground floor at all. In reality, you will not have differences greater than 2 to 3 °C.
When heating up, it of course ensures that the heat initially goes upwards into the room and thus reacts faster. Ok, understood, I’ll accept that!
But in the medium term, a temperature equilibrium sets in and the concrete of the ceiling will become warm. Simply because it is heated from the floor below. Since warm air rises, the concrete temperature will even be minimally higher than the room temperature below.
I also understand this from when underfloor heating was operated with high supply temperatures. But today it mostly runs at around 30 °C. So only about 10 degrees more than the room temperature.
For that, 30-50 mm insulation should be more than enough?
So what is the point of 120 mm insulation under the screed on the upper floor, as Oleda222 does? That is more than what was used a few years ago as external insulation! And that has to cover temperature differences of up to 40 °C and not just 10 °C.
There must be a reason for that, but I don’t get it right now....
Best regards,
Andreas
 

Saruss

2016-01-13 19:57:02
  • #2
The two effects sound transmission and inertia of the underfloor heating (the ceilings are after all significantly more mass + steel) with an intermediate layer that is cost-effective and easy to install to significantly reduce, sounds reasonable to me. It also seems to be easier to get the screed smooth and even than the concrete ceilings. Some companies also offer it differently, with underfloor heating in the concrete ceilings. You can also find something about it here in the forum. It has not caught on so far.
 

Bieber0815

2016-01-13 21:55:35
  • #3
Can't you simply "lay a layer of bricks on top" to maintain the desired room height? That's how it is with us ...
 

Uwe82

2016-01-13 23:48:59
  • #4
The building application has already been submitted, so an addendum would be needed if the development plan allows it. That was not the case with us, which is why we also have "only" 2.43m up to the underside of the wooden beam ceiling on the ground floor.
 

Bieber0815

2016-01-14 06:26:30
  • #5
Hm, well, that will hurt, but I would do it anyway (if it has a chance of success). In a few years, if you still live in your house, you will have forgotten the trouble about the addendum, but the clear room height remains.
 

andimann

2016-01-14 15:01:23
  • #6
I have also already considered increasing the ceiling height. But we are building with Poroton, and in my opinion, there are only whole and half bricks. So we have to go at least 12.5 cm higher. And that is quite a lot on the upper floor again. That automatically leads to higher doors and windows. Otherwise, it looks very strange.
Then we are talking about a total of 3500 € again.
If there were also quarter bricks, I would go about 6.25 cm higher all around and that would be it. Then no higher doors and windows would be needed.

And I currently have a building application running in which I deviate from the building regulations because I am raising the house by 15 cm.
They are really very relaxed here, but maybe I shouldn't overstrain that either.

I will first try to pressure my general contractor to change the floor construction.

from
50 mm insulation
30 mm tack board
70 mm screed
10 mm tile/parquet

to

70 mm insulation
20 mm tack board
60 mm screed
10 mm tile/parquet

This is cement screed; 60 mm is apparently the standard (40-45 mm coverage over the pipes).

Best regards,

Andreas
 

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