here’s an update on my heating:
I tried different things. I basically turned off the room thermostats and control valves. I am still working with thermal balancing. I called the office that retroactively performed the heating load calculation for us. So either they did something unusual or I had often heard it differently before: the heating load of the rooms is the calculation of how much heating energy goes into them. But when they calculated the hydraulic balancing, they did not calculate how much heating energy comes into the rooms at which flow rate. They only calculated how much flow is needed in the individual circuits so that approximately the same heating energy can be input into each room at the same time.
Practically:
the heating load in the basement is much lower because only 15 degrees are to be reached there. But even there, based on pipe spacing and pipe length, they calculated that heating load x can be input in time y, just like in the bathroom and the other rooms. This means that the hydraulic balancing would only cause the basement to be closed much more often than the bathroom. But that helps me zero if I don’t have ERRs. That’s why I prefer simple thermal balancing and am quite satisfied with it. In the living area, due to the kitchen, many people, and sun, there are quite some temperature differences. I’m thinking about turning the ERR on there and then closing the control valve at a certain temperature.
question: currently I have control valves that are closed without power. That wouldn’t make sense here. Should I just replace them with ones that are open without power? Are there recommendations for ones that consume little power? I have 2W ones installed but heard there are also ones with 1W? There are immediately 5 circuits/valves connected to that room.
Regarding consumption: the COP has slightly dropped to about 4.75. However, the annual performance factor has been at 4.35 since May and I hope to end up with at least 4.4, possibly even 4.5. The source inlet temperature is now below 5 degrees. Let’s see where that goes.
question: I only have a temperature difference of about 3 degrees between the heat source inlet and outlet. I read that it can actually be 7 degrees. But I already reduced the pump to stage 2 out of 3. That didn’t improve much. At stage 1 it seems it no longer has enough power to pump. I immediately set it back to 2 because the inlet temperature dropped rapidly and I was afraid it might freeze. Is that normal?