Apparently, I can no longer edit the first post, so here we continue...
The house is, however, in very good condition and has been continuously renovated. Therefore, we initially do not want to change much.
A few key data:
[*]13.33 x 10.32 floor area = 137.57 sqm
[*]Single-story
[*]Gable roof with a 28° pitch
[*]Attached conservatory measuring 5 x 6.60 m = 33 sqm from 1999 with double glazing
[*]Wooden windows and doors with triple glazing from 2006
[*]Oil condensing boiler Buderus Logano plus sb105 from 2012
Currently, there are two topics on which I would appreciate some input.
Floor coverings
As the house, corresponding to its year of construction, has no underfloor heating (except in the subsequently built conservatory and an electric underfloor heating in the bathroom), the goal is to have a floor covering that is as warm underfoot as possible, but of course should also look appealing.
Currently, there are carpets in the living, dining, and bedrooms; laminate in the hallway, kitchen, and guest room.
My dream would be oiled oak parquet in plank format. The problem here is that our tomcat sometimes likes to “think over” his food. When this happens during our working hours, the exposure times are not necessarily beneficial to the condition of the floor covering.
So if no one has a tip on how to remove such residues completely without a trace, this option is probably unfortunately off the table.
Alternatively, we are currently considering glued vinyl sheets. The decisive advantage here would be that we could lay glued vinyl continuously without expansion joints (except for existing screed joints). Also, we could extend the floor seamlessly into the conservatory and the bathroom. I had thought about simply covering the tiles with leveling compound.
My main concern with this option is mainly the low build-up height of the floor. Vinyl is still relatively warm underfoot, but the thermal resistance offers no insulation against the screed.
According to the building description:
"Slab foundation with frost skirts, building slab 10 cm thick on continuous foil, above that 5 cm pearl foam screed (k=0.9)"
Do you think this is a problem?
Or are the differences in thermal resistance of the various floor coverings negligible as long as there is no comprehensive renovation with contemporary floor insulation and/or underfloor heating?
I also briefly considered installing underfloor heating using dry screed construction but fear that the effort and cost would be too high at the moment.
Attic/Staircase
On the ground floor, besides the master bedroom, there is currently only one other bedroom measuring 2.50 x 4.25 m. This is partly blocked by the staircase to the attic and is thus also a passage room—more like an enlarged hallway.
The staircase in the 3D plan does not correspond to the actual dimensions of the stairs; we have not measured it exactly yet.
Our plan is now to relocate the staircase to the dining room.
Apparently, the staircase used to be in this location, and it fits there exactly thanks to the identical wall length. Thus, the passage room will be freed up for a nursery, and we can take the next 2-3 years to fully expand, renovate, and convert the attic, which is currently half-finished, into a children’s room.
Since the staircase, as mentioned, was once already at this location, I hope that the ceiling opening can simply be reinstated. Conversely, I have no idea yet how to properly close the current ceiling opening.
It is a wooden beam ceiling, and in the current opening at least one beam was cut. Can I simply extend it again with fittings and screws, or does this not provide sufficient load-bearing capacity?
These are the most urgent points troubling us for now.
I would be glad if this thread finds some interest; later, surely some other questions will follow.
If desired, I can also move the questions into separate topics in the individual subforums, but from my point of view, it makes more sense to handle the project collectively in one thread.