Gable roof bungalow from 1975 - renovation options

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Hello everyone,

my wife and I signed the purchase contract for our little house in September last year - a gable roof bungalow built in 1975. Since the previous owner is still waiting for the completion of her condominium, the handover date is not until early May.

Accordingly, we are currently sitting on pins and needles and ponder daily about what and how we want to renovate and furnish. In addition, we are now expecting a child (end of August 2019). This has on the one hand thrown the priorities for the renovation into disarray, but on the other hand, of course, also means that my wife probably won’t be able to help as much with the move and renovation as planned.

Apparently, I can no longer edit the first post, so here we continue...

The house is, however, in very good condition and has been continuously renovated. Therefore, we initially do not want to change much.

A few key data:

[*]13.33 x 10.32 floor area = 137.57 sqm
[*]Single-story
[*]Gable roof with a 28° pitch
[*]Attached conservatory measuring 5 x 6.60 m = 33 sqm from 1999 with double glazing
[*]Wooden windows and doors with triple glazing from 2006
[*]Oil condensing boiler Buderus Logano plus sb105 from 2012

Currently, there are two topics on which I would appreciate some input.

Floor coverings
As the house, corresponding to its year of construction, has no underfloor heating (except in the subsequently built conservatory and an electric underfloor heating in the bathroom), the goal is to have a floor covering that is as warm underfoot as possible, but of course should also look appealing.
Currently, there are carpets in the living, dining, and bedrooms; laminate in the hallway, kitchen, and guest room.
My dream would be oiled oak parquet in plank format. The problem here is that our tomcat sometimes likes to “think over” his food. When this happens during our working hours, the exposure times are not necessarily beneficial to the condition of the floor covering.
So if no one has a tip on how to remove such residues completely without a trace, this option is probably unfortunately off the table.

Alternatively, we are currently considering glued vinyl sheets. The decisive advantage here would be that we could lay glued vinyl continuously without expansion joints (except for existing screed joints). Also, we could extend the floor seamlessly into the conservatory and the bathroom. I had thought about simply covering the tiles with leveling compound.

My main concern with this option is mainly the low build-up height of the floor. Vinyl is still relatively warm underfoot, but the thermal resistance offers no insulation against the screed.

According to the building description:
"Slab foundation with frost skirts, building slab 10 cm thick on continuous foil, above that 5 cm pearl foam screed (k=0.9)"

Do you think this is a problem?
Or are the differences in thermal resistance of the various floor coverings negligible as long as there is no comprehensive renovation with contemporary floor insulation and/or underfloor heating?

I also briefly considered installing underfloor heating using dry screed construction but fear that the effort and cost would be too high at the moment.

Attic/Staircase
On the ground floor, besides the master bedroom, there is currently only one other bedroom measuring 2.50 x 4.25 m. This is partly blocked by the staircase to the attic and is thus also a passage room—more like an enlarged hallway.

The staircase in the 3D plan does not correspond to the actual dimensions of the stairs; we have not measured it exactly yet.

Our plan is now to relocate the staircase to the dining room.
Apparently, the staircase used to be in this location, and it fits there exactly thanks to the identical wall length. Thus, the passage room will be freed up for a nursery, and we can take the next 2-3 years to fully expand, renovate, and convert the attic, which is currently half-finished, into a children’s room.

Since the staircase, as mentioned, was once already at this location, I hope that the ceiling opening can simply be reinstated. Conversely, I have no idea yet how to properly close the current ceiling opening.
It is a wooden beam ceiling, and in the current opening at least one beam was cut. Can I simply extend it again with fittings and screws, or does this not provide sufficient load-bearing capacity?



These are the most urgent points troubling us for now.
I would be glad if this thread finds some interest; later, surely some other questions will follow.
If desired, I can also move the questions into separate topics in the individual subforums, but from my point of view, it makes more sense to handle the project collectively in one thread.

Is it a solid house or a timber frame house?
Can you nicely set up one or two rooms upstairs? How about the windows up there?

Where should/could the stairs go exactly?
Could you sketch them in?

It is a solid house.

Exterior walls:
10cm Thermocrete concrete as the inner shell (floor-high precast elements), 5-7cm insulation, outer shell made of brick slip cladding with Thermocrete concrete max. heat demand 130 kcal/m²h. Total thickness 24cm.
The plan is to set up two rooms upstairs. Due to a maximum ceiling height of only 2m and sloping ceilings, this is of course not quite easy, but I think it can be nicely arranged for children’s and guest rooms.
There are already two roof windows, a large one in the finished part and a smaller one in the part not yet finished. Both windows are from 2012, the large one with a shutter and electronic control.



A picture of the planned location of the staircase:

Staircase and ceiling beams. A carpenter should discuss that with you. As a forum advisor, I find that too tricky. Flooring, use cork, sealed because of cat puke. So foot-warm as if it were FHZ and also slightly soft when walking.

Our plan is now to move the staircase to the dining room.

It has its winding on the other side. But probably the lower part can be designed flexibly? Are you sure it was there and not along the load-bearing wall, i.e. in the middle of the house? In my opinion, it would fit better there – it doesn't block any windows and is close to the room door. You would have a bit more privacy later with a room divider towards the living room/sofa when the children are older.

Regarding the upper floor: it looks very bright up there. For an adequate ceiling height, dormers could be added later if it fits the budget?! What does the development plan say about that? Or can you tell from the surrounding buildings whether this is permitted?

I would do without a dressing room and instead design it in the current stair room. There would be enough freedom of movement there as well as sufficient space for cabinets and so on.

Do you have photos of the outdoor area?