Questions about underfloor heating with geothermal energy

  • Erstellt am 2014-11-05 19:18:36

nordanney

2014-11-20 15:27:18
  • #1
At the flow temperature of 25/26 degrees and the current weather (you also live in NRW, where it is still quite mild at the moment), THE ROOM TEMPERATURE MUST reach above 18 degrees. Maybe the temperature is not getting to the heating circuits because a valve is closed somewhere. Your floor should also be pleasantly warm. We notice a clear difference on the tiles between the tiles on the stairs/landings and, for example, the tiles in the kitchen. Is it the same for you?
 

crazy5170

2014-11-20 15:32:28
  • #2
Let's not even start with the floor. The living room on the ground floor has tiles that are cold. The first floor has laminate, which also feels cold. According to the sanitary engineer and the developer, this is correct because the insulation of the house is, in quotes, excellent, and therefore the warmth should not be noticeable. mild climate is relative. We currently have 7°
 

nordanney

2014-11-20 16:00:07
  • #3
If the tiles are cold in your place, then the heat from the heating probably does not reach there (pragmatic layman's opinion). A difference between "tiles without underfloor heating" and "tiles with underfloor heating" is definitely noticeable with the supply temperature. Have your heating engineer come over, otherwise you won't get any further. P.S. Mild for mid/end of November for sure. For us, it's also a "warm" 7-8 degrees (Lower Rhine).
 

Musketier

2014-11-20 16:08:30
  • #4
On the tiles we do not notice the areas that are heated (not cold, but also not warm), but we do notice the areas that are unheated (unpleasantly cold), e.g. tiles in the utility room or under the stairs.

Do all rooms have the problem that they don’t get warm or only the living room and bathroom?
Does the heating circuit pump run at some point? If yes, what is the temperature of the supply and return flow when it runs?
Are the valves on the heating circuit distributor fully open?
Is there still pressure on the heating circuit or do you possibly have a leak?
Are domestic hot water times set?
Is there a manual?

What adjustment options are there for the heating curve?
My personal suspicion is that the target room temperature of 35° somehow shifts your heating curve so that the heating does not work properly or, as nordanney wrote, the valves are not fully open.

Source bosy-online.de
What can be adjusted (how is the heating curve defined)?
The heating curve is defined differently depending on the manufacturer and/or controller.
The simplest heating curve is a straight line, which is determined by at least 2 points, e.g., at an outside temperature of +10 °C the supply temperature is 40 °C, at an outside temperature of -10 °C the supply temperature is 60 °C, the remaining values are linear.
However, most heating curves are somehow "curved" to represent, for example, the heat output of radiators or underfloor heating more realistically.
For many heating curves, only 2 values can be set, usually the slope (gradient) and the target room temperature, or the slope and a parallel shift (level), or the slope and the starting point (curve start).
For some manufacturers/controllers, the heating curve is determined by 3 parameters: slope, level, and target room temperature. The slope is the gradient of the curve, the level is a parallel shift of the entire curve vertically up or down, and changing the target room temperature causes a shift of the entire curve along an oblique room temperature line. See the first 3 graphics showing a shift of the heating curve with slope 7.5 (manufacturer-specific) after a 5 °C higher or lower target room temperature.
The slope or steepness of the heating curve defines how much the supply temperature should change depending on the outside temperature (see figure 4). Possible slopes vary greatly depending on the manufacturer, many controllers use slopes in the range of 0.1 to about 3.5. For underfloor heating, the steepness usually is in the range of 0.5 (i.e., flatter curve), while for radiators the curve will be steeper (e.g., 1.3). The worse the house is insulated, the steeper the heating curve generally needs to be.

The level shifts the entire heating curve vertically up or down (see figure 5). This can be used to compensate for inaccurate temperature sensor readings or generally correct the heating curve if it is always about the same amount too warm or too cold at all outside temperatures.
 

nordanney

2014-11-20 16:14:16
  • #5

Exactly what I mean
 

ypg

2014-11-20 17:52:50
  • #6


According to the construction companies, every newly built house nowadays has top-notch insulation.
That’s just how houses are built today.
Although I’m not familiar with geothermal heating, we also have underfloor heating with our gas heating system.
Where the valves are located, it is nice and warm at the feet. Even now with mild 7-degree weather outside. Because of course, the heating must be able to provide you with your comfort temperature inside the house. And that warmth is conducted through the tiles into the room.
That’s why, as and write: at 7 degrees outside temperature, you should feel something at your feet.

Check the floor around the valves (even better if you know where the pipes were laid): if it feels cold at your feet there, call the plumber! Because then something will be set incorrectly. I suspect that the valves are not opened - the tiler has to close them before laying the tiles so that the screed does not get too warm.

Regards, Yvonne
 

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