Do-it-yourself painting work - tips, experiences?

  • Erstellt am 2023-03-08 11:21:48

Taitv789

2023-03-09 15:03:20
  • #1

ok, how would I recognize a good paint?
Opacity at least 1
Wet abrasion class at least 2?

or what values should a good dispersion paint have
Apparently it is not so important to pay attention to the quality of the paint, since most are usually good, or am I misunderstanding that?

I had thought that we should already rely on a branded paint




I find it difficult to choose a good varnish that will really last for the coming years.
How can you recognize good varnish for indoor use (most are for outdoors)?

Is it also not important to rely on a brand product for varnish?

For varnish and paints it is important to me that the paints are easy to work with and have good quality so that longevity is ensured
 

allstar83

2023-03-09 15:07:17
  • #2
Why do you actually want wallpaper on the walls? Wallpaper is something old-fashioned to me, but maybe I'm wrong. You could possibly apply [Rollputz] yourselves after all.
 

Tolentino

2023-03-09 15:13:40
  • #3
In my experience, simplified scales are not particularly meaningful for consumers. Even supposedly technical data are not meaningful if the measuring method is not standardized. In this respect, my recommendations are based exclusively on my personal experiences or those of people I trust.

So dispersion paints: Alpina (tinted) worked well. Obi house brand (tinted) worked well. (Dispersion-) silicate paint: Hornbach house brand worked well.

All applied directly on gypsum plaster/gypsum board as well as on painter’s fleece (smooth fleece).

We also tried the silicate paint directly on concrete. Here, the opacity was not good, but we also did not apply a primer beforehand.

Lime paint: Alpenkalk was a disaster, regardless of the substrate. Painter’s fleece was the best, then gypsum board. Directly on gypsum plaster was really bad.
 

Taitv789

2023-03-09 15:27:46
  • #4
We don’t like roller plaster that much, the texture is a disaster; roller plaster is usually very rough (at least with 2 people we know). If you hit it with your elbow, you immediately scrape off a piece of skin that then gets stuck in the roller plaster. (Yes, you don’t brush against it often but for example in the hallway it can happen.) Also, roller plaster is a disaster if you ever want to remove it. We quite like the Raufaser 40 from Erfurt, it’s inexpensive and can be easily painted over multiple times. With the paint from Obi, you often see bad reviews (Alpina also has bad ones sometimes but many more positive ones). If dirt gets on the wall, we would like to be able to wipe it off with a damp cloth. (A good wet abrasion class is important for that.) Did you always have your paint mixed or did you buy it ready-made? How does it look if I have paint mixed and realize the bucket is not enough, then have the same color mixed the next day? Can you tell or can they mix it exactly the same? Ready-made paints are more precise, right?
 

Tolentino

2023-03-09 15:35:23
  • #5

[Irony on]: Aha, so you trust some anonymous review more than my pseudonymous experience! Then just go to Netto! [Irony off]


I think it rather depends on the shape of the dirt. I haven’t tried everything yet, but “normal dirt” (currently mostly drilling dust) comes off easily. If I can’t get something off at some point, I would just paint over it.


Had the colored ones mixed.


If you take a color from the color chart, it has a code and it should always be the same. We only did that with one color though. It worked out fine.


No idea (=experience). I don’t think so. In production it’s done by a machine anyway, just like at the hardware store or dealer.
 

ypg

2023-03-09 16:18:03
  • #6
That doesn't always work out exactly. It also depends on the nuances and amount of color pigments. But since a room has at least four walls and they all look different anyway due to the incoming light, only one rule applies: one wall, same paint bucket.
 

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