Also common is 30-40 cm for trafficked paths. You shouldn't go below 30, but over 40 cm usually doesn't make sense if the substructure is okay, meaning natural ground. If it was excavated beforehand, it doesn't matter whether you put 30 or 60 cm on top. If it settles, then the gravel layer above also settles. So this has to be well compacted and ideally it has already been through one winter; after that, it doesn't settle that much anymore. For paving work, it often actually makes sense to do it the following year. Around the house, this is often unproblematic because the working space is always backfilled with suitable material and well compacted. However, the sewer trenches (which are mostly in the driveway area) and the terrace are usually only backfilled with the soil from the excavation pit, and here there can be settlement despite good compaction.
I would definitely use 0/32 basalt gravel, underneath a separation fleece (doesn’t cost much but brings a lot) and then compact the whole thing well, namely with a large vibrating plate or (trench) roller. The DIY store vibrating plates often only compact 20-30 cm. They are good afterward so as not to damage the paving but unsuitable for the substructure.
In the terrace area, I definitely wouldn't go below 20 cm, rather 25-35 cm. The 10 cm are just about 60€ material cost for your area. But as said, a thick gravel layer doesn’t help if the soil underneath settles.