Clinker or plaster facade - What cost differences?

That's how it is, you can also execute ETICS in a higher quality. But even that does not provide absolute security. For that, you get, for example, thin wall constructions; otherwise only wood comes close.

Brick facades can also be damaged, especially by getting wet. Pest infestation through ventilation holes, washed out/defective (shoutout to Kärcher) joints (which is cheaper, renewing them after 10-15 years or repainting?). Insulation (if made of mineral wool) can also get wet and thus become non-functional. Those on a budget use EPS ("Styrofoam") as insulation there and thus have the environmental argument and "no plastic on the facade," which is often brought up against ETICS, also in cavity wall construction. Monolithic building involves accepting large thermal bridges at windows and intermediate ceilings. Again, scenarios can be constructed that argue against this.

There simply is no "perfect" wall construction.

We are still considering what to use on the outside and had expected an additional cost of 10-15 T€. However, the general contractor demanded an extra 25 T€!
Let's see what comes out with individual contracting now.

In our building, single-story, 15x9 meters floor area, with garage, the bricks cost 9,000 euros (pure material price). The masonry took 2 weeks with 4 people. At a cheap rate of 45 euros per hour, that makes about 14,000 euros.

I basically know mostly brick-clad houses from my youth. In my former neighborhood, built in 1995, no one has done anything to their facade yet. I only know efflorescence from photos on the internet. Often the window sills are made as a roll layer, which I do not like at all.

In our new development area, the light-colored, plastered buildings already look pretty bad; the first ones only moved in a year ago.

Often the window sills are then executed as a roll layer, I don't like that at all.

Why don't you like that? - it looks most suitable with the clinker. What do you recommend instead?

The "efflorescences" are usually salts that are washed out of the mortar. In a roll layer, the joints are constantly "flushed" when rainwater is present, so there is also more leaching. I am also "not allowed" to build a wall out of clinker bricks in the garden without a top, water-draining finish.

What I additionally do not like: The sill as a roll layer should have a 15° slope, other sills manage with 5°. In my opinion, natural stone sills simply fit better with a "modern," straightforward clinker house.