Central room temperature controller for ERR underfloor heating

whether most builders are satisfied with the standard (mandatory) ERR installation and the associated room controller on the wall (in terms of appearance)

That is probably the case. Everyone who is dissatisfied with it simply doesn’t have it installed in the first place. However, the Homematic parts wouldn’t win a design award now (IMHO).

I also recommend taking a look at the Homematic switch/button parts in person. They look like cheap toys, at least if nothing has improved in the last six months.

small update. bimetal was installed, boxes plastered by the painter and can be chiseled open if needed. ELT had the order to include Homematic in the offer, had difficulties. agreed not to install ERR control. no idea legally, but if the LP overlooks it, probably not a problem. I can live without ERR for now and would have 2 fallback options (radio or standard BiMetall)

Hello everyone,

even though this topic is actually closed here, I didn’t want to open the hundredth discussion about "hydraulic/thermal balancing." I hope that’s okay.



You explained everything very clearly and well for me as a layman, maybe you can help out here once again.

My system:
Daikin Altherma 3R
2 underfloor distributors (ground floor and upper floor) and in each room an ERR.

I received a thick stack of calculations from the heating engineer (heat load and thermal balancing), but I don’t really understand them.

Settings on the heating system:
Flow temperature 25
Desired room temp 21.5
Heating curve 0.4

Question 1:
The heating runs and warms nicely, but fine adjustment is currently done via the ERR.
If I now deactivate them, it will probably get too warm in most rooms.
Then I would have to turn down the flow in the distributor myself.
But wouldn’t that ruin the balancing done by the heating engineer, right? Because he set it based on his calculations (I assume he did).

Question 2:
What exactly is the difference between thermal and hydraulic balancing?
To me, the definitions always sound the same... letting just enough water run through the heating system by opening or closing a valve so that the temperature is correct. Or is that too simple?

Question 3:
If the ERRs are gone and the valves are set, then I basically regulate the temperature only through the flow temperature.
So why do I set a room temperature on the heating system? What sense does that make? If it’s too cold, raise the flow temp; if too warm, lower the flow temp... right?

I hope someone can shed some light on this :)

Thanks!

I am also a layman on the subject, but I’ll give it a try since I’ve just gone through the first settings.

1.)

Hydraulic balancing by the plumber was rather approximate.
The calculation of the surface heating had – at least with us – not much to do with the heating and design itself.
The cycling and runtime were terrible with us, and that was not due to the missing ERR.

Note down settings so that you can return to the original configuration in an emergency and get a feel for the matter.

2.)

That’s how I understood it too, but I’m happy to learn more.

3.)

Our Vaillant calculates the flow setpoint value based on the desired temperature (room temperature) and the outside temperature.
Since the Vaillant works with degree minutes, this directly affects the cycling and runtime.

Here you have to approach the values suitable for you by adjusting, checking, and measuring.