Burglary - Important Notice Regarding Household Contents Insurance

The grilles mentioned by are no longer a real problem, even for a small "village fire brigade".

For cutters and spreaders you need a HLF, but not every fire brigade has a HLF; the rescue time is considered the time when any vehicle arrives, and this is usually an understaffed TSF.

I meant more the rustic approach, Halligan Tool is not an option in front of grilles on windows and security doors

But very off-topic

How I make sure that we can also leave our house through a window in an emergency I will definitely not post here.

Although the affected window is a "total loss" and needs to be completely replaced, we definitely prefer that over someone rummaging through our entire house...

As part of reporting the damage to our household insurance, we also received the following information, which I do not want to withhold from you because, in my opinion, it is very important:

An attempted burglary is not covered by every household insurance!!!

Spend the "few extra euros" and equip your house with windows and doors of a higher resistance class.

Specifically, you should reconsider the following security features:

- Mushroom head locking bolts

- Multiple locking points

- Steel cores in the frame and sash of doors and windows

- Outdoor lighting with motion detectors

- Alarm system

- Video surveillance

While we are at it, check if carports and garages are listed in your building insurance. A member from the vtr forum had his carport burn down including the car. Caused by a cable reel. Insurance does not pay due to gross negligence; even if gross negligence was not present, the carport was not insured because it was not declared.

From my point of view, the burglar-resistant glass and the grilles were also forgotten here.

To turn the thread into a discussion:
There are many different ways to get into a house (prying open windows/doors, smashing, sawing, etc.) and to feel particularly safe, you would have to do something against all these variants. You never know in advance what equipment the next thief will bring.
Depending on how hard you make it for the thief, the damage to the building can be very severe. This not only means higher costs for the insurer (if they pay everything) but also a lot of running around with craftsmen, appraisers, etc. The effort would be correspondingly lower with minor damage due to low security measures.
Now some argue: If you only make it hard enough for the thief by increasing the burglary attempt duration to 3-4 minutes, he will give up. But you can also say that the thief will get in anywhere if he wants to. One could also claim that thieves are attracted to particularly well-protected houses because of the especially valuable interior.
In my view, you pay many thousands of euros to feel safer, not because you are spared a burglary or it will turn out less badly. I do not need this perceived security and therefore will not make the various investments for it.
With alarm systems, motion detectors, video surveillance, and self-triggered devices, you always have to ask yourself what each individual measure actually achieves and how reliable it is against false alarms.
Do I want an automatic notification to the police when something happens in the garden? Who pays the costs in case of a false alarm? What use is the burglary notification while on vacation or at work? Does the neighbor come over at that exact moment and risk his life? How annoying is the alarm for me and the neighbors if the dog or a careless teenager triggers it at dawn? What do I do with the nice HD recordings of the masked burglars?
Apart from the costs of all these systems, I also have to operate all of them accordingly (locking all handles before leaving the house, arming the alarm system, regularly checking all systems for functionality) and not panic at alarms. I don’t want to go into a panic every time the light reacts to a cat outside.