You can clearly see that you shouldn’t rely solely on others but rather always actively inform yourself. What you want to know cannot be sensibly explained to you here. Initiative is required first; please google "hydraulic or thermal balancing in connection with an air-to-water heat pump."
You can then read up for 2-3 days and provide the requested information here and ask targeted questions.
Without going into detail. We actually didn’t want to build but rather buy a turnkey house, but circumstances and spontaneous opportunities led to acquiring a plot at short notice. Unfortunately, one also had to decide quickly on a house building company. Therefore, we sadly lacked the time in some areas to deal with everything intensively. If I had planned it longer, I would have prepared for it at least a year ago.
That was definitely bad advice, sorry for you! Realistically, it will be 2-4 °C. Did you even notice a cooling function?
As I have learned recently, it also depends on the correct individual room controllers (IRCs), which must be compatible with it....
Our IRCs are compatible and were also correctly set. However, I noticed nothing or only very little. With an outside temperature of 30 degrees, we had between 24-25 degrees inside.
We also moved in at the end of January. We also have an air-to-water heat pump with underfloor heating and photovoltaics.
I experimented for about 14 days until I determined the right flow temperature for the air-to-water heat pump.
After that, all IRCs fully open and only the one in the bedroom "almost" completely turned down. This way the bedroom doesn’t warm up so much and all other rooms have a consistent, pleasant temperature. The bathrooms also have towel radiators. Those indeed only get lukewarm. But that is enough to dry towels overnight or during the day. The heating element in my air-to-water heat pump only kicks in at about -15 to -20 degrees. So not last winter yet.
The combination with the photovoltaic system runs great. Since March, I have hardly drawn any power from the grid. Even currently, my system still supplies our house 100% self-sufficiently.
Sounds good. Somehow I still haven’t understood the logic with the flow temperature and the IRCs. Since we have digital IRCs, I set them in the bedroom and in our guest room to 19 degrees. Should I set that even lower? I always understood that the valve gradually opens step by step until fully open. From you, I hear that you either turn it fully on or not at all. In the apartment, we didn’t do that but always set it to the respective temperature on the dial. When heated, a red light came on.
you could also check whether the controller is connected to the correct actuator. I’ve often heard that it’s connected incorrectly.
Also interesting would be where the manifold is. If pipes run through the bedroom, it will also get too warm quickly.
Is there any guide on how I can check this myself, as I have never done anything like this before?
You almost did it right. You should have rather reduced the flow.
Sorry to ask again here, but where do I do that?