Air too dry! - Replace old ventilation with enthalpy ventilation?

Already entertaining as always the same people spreading the same "truths". Slike always says how great it is to make the air more humid by ventilating Wiltshire says you just have to smear clay on...

How about we wait for the basic information from the OP and solve the whole thing based on facts?

Dear forum,

thank you for your numerous responses!

Currently, a Wolf CWL 300 is installed and our HLS company has suggested replacing it with a CWL-2-325 Enthalpy.

At this point, I cannot imagine having the house replastered. We live here with two small children, so that seems disproportionate to me.

If I understand correctly, my ventilation system can only be operated in 4 stages (0 moisture protection, 1 reduced ventilation, 2 nominal ventilation, 3 intensive ventilation). Currently, it runs in automatic/timed program between 7 am and 7 pm at stage 2 (160m3/h). At night, it runs at reduced ventilation (at 150m3/h).

We have not yet tried humidifiers, drying laundry, etc., as my hope was that with the enthalpy we would not have to "manually" take care of humidifying the air.

Perhaps I should try to reduce the ventilation even further in winter. But apparently, in Auto mode, I can only adjust the times for stages 1 and 2, but do not have the option to switch to moisture protection at night... I will discuss this again with my HLS company...

There has been a mistake: it is 220m3/h at level 2

Currently a Wolf CWL 300 is installed and our HLS operation has proposed replacing it with a CWL-2-325 enthalpy unit.

For the CWL 300 (Excellent?) you can find enthalpy exchangers.
Costs between 600 and 1200€. I would simply buy and install one.
But first check the exact model designation again!

A completely new CWL-2-325 seems unnecessarily expensive to me.
How old is your CWL 300?

If I’m seeing this correctly, my ventilation system can only operate in 4 stages (0 moisture protection, 1 reduced ventilation, 2 nominal ventilation, 3 intensive ventilation). Currently it runs automatically/time program between 7 a.m. and 7 p.m. on stage 2 (160 m3/h). At night then on reduced ventilation (with 150 m3/h).

That can be configured!
Adjustable from 50-300 for each stage.

We haven't tried humidifiers, drying laundry, etc. yet, because my hope was that with enthalpy we wouldn't have to "manually" take care of humidifying the air.

But you don’t have an enthalpy heat exchanger.
Before spending thousands on that you could first try a few other things.

Always entertaining how the same people spread the same "truths."

I was almost sure you would answer like that.
Inform yourself before you laugh at others and just check it out. You can find a report from 2004 at the Fraunhofer Institute for Building Physics or, if they are not reputable enough for you, also browse DIN 18947, which among other things categorizes water vapor absorption classes WS-I to III. The University of Bath (Moisture Buffering Capacity studies) and the University of Vienna (publication of measurement data on sorption and diffusion) also have scientific publications on this.
It should be possible to find it with this description.

This is not about "opinion" or any stories of "breathing walls." This is about documented facts.
The water vapor absorption properties are well researched, part of standards, fundamental to building physics, and the properties are calculable and measurable.

So, if someone complains about permanently dry air with 20% humidity, clay simply does absolutely nothing!

Clay can smooth out humidity, yes, but nothing more. That's what the studies and standards say.
Maybe you should read them sometime (+ understand)?

That means if someone here soon complains about fluctuating humidity, you can gladly smear some clay somewhere for them...