Solid wood parquet on underfloor heating

I can only agree with and strongly advise you to take a close look at both yourselves. All the statements are true for the person who says them, but since you are an individually sensitive person, all of this has only limited significance. The fact is that both are possible and both have advantages. Only your personal preference can therefore decide. Possibly the term "floating" is a bit confusing. Even if you install it on screed, the screed underneath is also made "floating." As I said, I had exactly this master floor "floating" over 200 sqm and there was none of the floating feeling or vibrations, etc., the floor just lay neatly, so the term "floating" probably causes more worry than necessary. We have now screwed down our current floorboards and also installed them on a floating substructure; nothing floats there. To counter the craftsman who said that laminated flooring feels like glued parquet, in my opinion it feels like a stone floor, and since I see that first-hand with my son, I at least don’t see any optical advantage. In general, I would be cautious with such blanket judgments; nothing beats trying it out yourself. You would notice the difference if you, for example, drop something on the floor in the kitchen. On the glued floor, it will definitely break because it is "hard." Also for children, besides the fact of avoiding a large amount of glue, I would prefer a floating installation. Many years ago I fell on the wooden floor and I think a hard glued floor would have been much more painful. Again: nothing floats and why should one see an optical difference. If you are so particular, then you would have to take a solid wood floor, but also live with its "disadvantages." So: look, walk on it, decide, and don’t let yourself be unnecessarily unsettled by supposed right or wrong.

maybe I should add: I have a "floating" installed wooden floor (click parquet from Parador) which I intentionally made even "softer" by cushioning the crossbeam layer with rubber. For this, I probably (on a whim) chose the beam spacing accordingly and used a "soft" 18mm OSB board as the base on the beams. On top of that, a 1.5mm impact sound insulation mat (brand Wineo made from castor oil = free of harmful substances). My floor actually vibrates a little more exactly as desired than others I know. You can see this because you can make furniture on the edge resonate if you jump up and down in the middle of the floor ;). That is exactly good for (my damaged) joints. However, my floor also creaks a bit in some places. But for me, that is rather positive than negative (fits well with the current Hornbach ad :p )

I'm just imagining you dozing through the apartment, I hope you have enough ceiling height. If I hadn't had my own experiences with the respective floors, some of these statements would also unsettle me. All too eagerly, scares are spread or some things are promoted with exaggerated claims. Many roads lead to Rome, some are glued and some are laid floating. They all arrive there......

Maybe so, I'm also currently facing the decision. However, I have now inquired with various floor layers

I believe I've already shown you how you can call to your questions :)

I have already written that a combination with underfloor heating works, there is someone in the forum who has also illustrated it, but unfortunately I have no loose memory who that might have been. I seem to remember it was a wooden house and possibly even with a wooden basement?

That was me, solid wood planks screwed with underfloor heating

thank you for the detailed explanation and yes, that is correct... you already told me that I can involve the expert :)... thanks always for your help and tips. I will take another look at it on Thursday with the floor installer. The one I have now chosen interestingly first recommended the floating option, but I was somewhat influenced by the statements of several other parquet installers who strongly advised me to glue it down. What could now play a role for the installation method is that although we removed the tiles, we left the tile adhesive in place. It was too much effort for me with the rotary hammer. I wouldn’t have managed that with almost 100 sqm. However, the floor installer said that he would simply break the peaks with the milling cutter and level the floor. I’m curious how well that will work. do you think that is sufficient or does the adhesive need to be completely milled off for a possible gluing? Otherwise, I would have to install it floating. But I will also see what the floor installer thinks about it.